Bard heat pump troubleshooting

Bard heat pump troubleshooting DEFAULT
trane furnace troubleshooting guide

Trane Furnace Troubleshooting

Monday, October 4, 2021

Trane furnace is one of the most reliable heating systems in existence. Every most reliable furnace runs into problems from time to time. So, you may get Trane furnace problems also. You can fix some common problems easily yourself. If you are unfamiliar with fixing the basic issues of your furnace, follow our Trane furnace troubleshooting tips and save money as well as time.

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york thermostat troubleshooting guide

York Thermostat Troubleshooting

Friday, September 24, 2021

The main connection between the cooling or heating system and the end-user is a thermostat. Do you have a York thermostat? And, is not working/ not displaying anything or not communicating correctly to your cooling and heating system? Some thermostat malfunctions may create serious issues with your HVAC system. So, learn about a few York thermostat troubleshooting fixes that you can do without need of an HVAC technician. This blog describes common York thermostat problems and their possible causes.

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honeywell water heater troubleshooting guide

Honeywell Water Heater Troubleshooting

Thursday, September 9, 2021

Do you have problems with your Honeywell water heater? Quickly diagnose and repair your water heater with our comprehensive troubleshooting guide. The chances are a bad thermocouple has shut off the gas to the pilot light or an issue with the pilot light. This article will show you how to fix Honeywell electric and gas heater.

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Troubleshooting Your Geothermal Heat Pump: Common Issues for Michigan Homeowners

Troubleshooting Your Geothermal Heat Pump: Common Issues for Michigan HomeownersA geothermal heat pump is one of the most trouble-free ways to stay cozy through Northern Michigan’s snowy winters and keep cool on the warmest summer days. Even with proper geothermal heat pump maintenance, though, sometimes things go wrong. When that happens, a little troubleshooting can help you get your system running again. Most of the following tips will apply to issues with any heat pump system, not just geothermal.

  • Heat pump doesn’t turn on – Check that the thermostat is set to “heat” or “auto” for heating and “cool” for air conditioning. Make sure there are no tripped breakers or blown fuses in your home’s main fuse box. Inspect incoming electrical connections for breakage or corrosion. If everything looks OK, the system may have gone into lockout mode. Try resetting the unit.
  • No air – Look for registers and vents blocked by furniture or other items. Blockages in one area can interfere with airflow to others. If the fan motor is running, but no air is coming from any of your registers, you may have a broken fan belt.
  • No heat – If your system is set to “heat,” but you’re not getting warm air, your airflow may be set too high. A technician can adjust the fan motor speed and airflow rate.
  • No cooling – If your compressor is running, but your geothermal cooling isn’t working, the refrigerant charge may be low. You’ll need a technician to inspect for leaks and add refrigerant. If the compressor isn’t running, the system may have gone into lockout mode and need to be reset.
  • Heat pump turns off early – If your system turns off before the thermostat temperature is reached, a dirty air filter could be to blame. A dirty filter impedes airflow and strains the motor, causing it to overheat and shut down. A malfunctioning blower is another possibility.
  • Poor humidity control – This problem is usually due to sub-optimal airflow. Consult with a professional about having the airflow and fan motor speed adjusted for better performance.

For expert help keeping your geothermal heat pump running reliably year round, get in touch with us at Team Bob’s Heating Cooling Plumbing. We keep homeowners comfortable in Traverse City and around Grand Traverse County.

Our goal is to help educate our customers in Traverse City, Michigan and surrounding areas about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about geothermal heat pump and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

Image courtesy of Shutterstock

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Photograph of client using tissue to look for air conditioning air flow How to Diagnose & Repair
an Air Conditioner that Won't Start

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

Air conditioner or heat pump won't start:

What to check if your air conditioner or heat pump just won't start at all. Here we give a diagnostic sequence of things to check if the A/C is just not working

. Checking these simple items, switches and controls, including some you may not know about (overflow pan switch for example) may get your system running without a costly service call.

This article forms part of our series on how to diagnose an air conditioner or heat pump that is not cooling: this article explains how to diagnose and correct air conditioning problems like lost or reduced air conditioner cooling capacity, reduced or no cool air flow, reduced or no actual lowering of the air temperature, or an air conditioner that won't start.

We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.

What to Check First if the Air Conditioner or Heat Pump Won't Start

Air conditioning thermostat (C) Daniel Friedman

Air Conditioner Won't Start - Air conditioning system is not running at all:

Is there no cool air at all coming out of the supply registers? Is the air conditioner or heat pump indoor or outdoor unit silent? If so it's not running. Here is what to check first.Check first that
  • the air conditioning equipment is turned on,
  • the thermostat is calling for cooling, and that
  • the blower unit or air handler is actually blowing air through the ductwork.
Here are the details of what to check in what order if your air condtioner or heat pump doesn't start at all when you set the room thermostat to call for cooling:
  1. Check the Room Thermostat Temperature Setting: Set the thermostat to at least 5 degrees below room temperature. Our elderly mom has no patience with switches and controls.

    She regularly calls her air conditioning service company with a service request, sometimes late at night, because she has simply failed to set the temperature on the thermostat lower than the room temperature. Don't drive your A/C like our mother.
  2. Check that the Room Thermostat is set to "Cool" not "Off" or "Heat". If the thermostat is not set to "cool" it is simply turning off your A/C. If the thermostat display is blank then it's not receiving power (for modern digital thermostats). Check that electrical power is on at the air handler and to the the low-voltage transformer that supplies power to the thermostat.

    If the thermostat has power, check that when you set the thermostat temperature down at least 5 degrees below room temperature the thermostat calls for cooling. If it doesn't then check for broken or shorted thermostat wires anywhere between the wall thermostat and the control board at the air handler.

    You can easily eliminate possible thermostat problems as a cause of failure of the air conditioner to start by simply eliminating the thermostat from the picture: disconnect the thermostat wires at the blower unit's control board and instead connect the two thermostat terminals directly together with a jumper wire. If the system starts then the problem is in the thermostat itself or in its wiring.

    If the thermostat is working but the compressor condenser unit won't start, you could skip ahead

    to COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTICSbut I wish you'd double check the remaining steps in this article first because there are some sneaky snafus listed below that might still be the problem.

  3. Check that electricity is on for the equipment.  Check all of the electrical switches and controls that can turn electrical power off at the indoor air handler or at the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. There are more of these switches than you might guess. Here's a list of what to check:

    Electrical power switches and service switches outside by the compressor, inside at the air handler, and fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Don't forget to check that the access covers to the equipment are properly closed and latched. Otherwise a

    BLOWER DOOR SAFETY SWITCH could be keeping the equipment from running.

    There are several other safety switches and controls, both manual and automatic that can leave an air conditioner or heat pump turned "off" such as a blower compartment door interlock safety switch, an electric motor overload or overheat switches, and a condensate tray spillage detector switch.

    Some hard-to-find electrical switches on an air conditioner or heat pump could be keeping your air conditioner from starting, such as

    a FLOAT SWITCH on Condensate Tray that could

    causing CONDENSATE PAN SWITCH LOCKOUT - condensate spilling into an overflow pan that uses a sensor switch can be enough to shut down your air conditioner.

    a blower MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH could be keeping a fan motor from starting.

    A bad or failed starter capacitor could also be leaving your system shut down, failing to start a blower, fan, or compressor motor.


    Watch out: See A/C - HEAT PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES to be sure you have found and checked every manual or automatic electrical switch on the system.
  4. Check the electrical supply voltage. Even if electricity is on, if the supply voltage has fallen too far below the operating voltage range of your air conditioner it's likely that the system will not operate, particlarly, you may note that the compressor motor won't start.


    Watch out: if you hear a humming noise at an electrical motor that won't start, turn the system off while waiting for repair. Shutting off the system might avoid costly damage to the equipment.

    Watch out: if you are trying to run your air conditioner or heat pump from a backup electrical generator it may be that while the generator supplies enough current (Amps) to run the equipment it is not capable of handling the extra current draw (high amps) required to start the motor.

    You may be able to circumvent this problem with an extra-boost or "hard-start" motor capacitor. We gave the link to CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS just above.

If Steps 1-4 All Check Out OK but the A/C System Is Not Working Check These Items

Air conditioning thermostat (C) Daniel Friedman

If the air conditioning system is still not working, or if the A/C system is running but cool air is not coming out of the supply check the following:

Thermostat problems: Air Conditioner Thermostats:

Air conditioner won't turn on, or fan won't turn on or won't turn off.

See THERMOSTATSfor a discussion of how air conditioner thermostats work and how the air conditioner blower fan controls work.

Air Conditioner Air Handler Blower motor Won't Start?

See MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCHjust to be sure that the air handler blower fan motor has not shut off on thermal overload.And if your blower fan is driven by a fan belt and an electric motor, of course check to see that the drive belt is in place and un-damaged. If the blower fan belt is broken the electric motor will run just fine (you may be able to hear it) but the blower fan assembly itself won't be turning.

Air Conditioner Won't Start - electrical problems

If the air handler or indoor blower assembly does not start in response to a call for cooling the no-start problem is probably at the indoor thermostat or at the blower assembly itself.

If the indoor air handler blower runs but the outdoor compressor/condenser unit never starts then the problem is more likely there. If the indoor air handler runs but the outdoor compressor/condenser does not,


1. Check that electricity is on for the equipment, everywhere. Check all switches and controls, including service switches, including outside by the compressor, inside at the air handler, and fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel.

See KEY HVAC SWITCHES service switches, circuit breakers, fuses, power

2. Check all of the safety and interlock switches: For example, condensate spilling into an overflow pan that uses a sensor switch can be enough to shut down your air conditioner.

There are several switches and controls, both manual and automatic that can leave an air conditioner or heat pump turned "off" such as a blower compartment door interlock safety switch

  • BLOWER DOOR SAFETY SWITCH - an open blower door will shut down the air handler unit
  • CONDENSATE PAN SWITCH LOCKOUT - a condensate tray spillage detector switch (water in the overflow tray shuts down the air handler) Below in this article we give more details about condensate drip tray or overflow tray safety switch problems.
  • RESET BUTTON, ELECTRIC MOTOR - electric motor overload or overheat switches - a motor overload switch will keep fan motors from running
See A/C - HEAT PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHESto be sure you have found and checked every manual or automatic electrical switch on the system both at the outdoor compressor/condenser unit and indoors at the air handler and duct system.

Damaged air conditioner electrical wire (C) D Friedman T Hemm

Electrical problems: air conditioning system won't start: it may sound silly, but is the air conditioner turned on?

Has the cooling thermostat been set to "cool" and the temperature set below ambient room temperature?

Do both the outdoor compressor/condenser unit and the indoor blower fan/evaporator coil unit have electrical power?

Has the air conditioning electrical wiring been physically damaged or cut? Photo courtesy of Tim Hemm.

Are the power switches on at these units, are the fuses good, are the circuit breakers in the "on" position, and is the thermostat set correctly?

  • See THERMOSTATS for more diagnostic tips.
  • Check the electrical power supply: is power on to all of the A/C equipment and is voltage within normal operating levels for the equipment. We cited this and included some warnings earlier in the article above.

Air conditioner compressor problems, including compressor noises, hard starting, and burned-out compressors, are explained in detail beginning

at COMPRESSOR & CONDENSING COIL and including topics such as

  • Check for a blown fuse locally inside the air handler, such as on or near a control board.
  • Check for a bad contactor or start relay inside the air handler or outside at the compressor/condenser unit
  • Check (or your service tech will check) for a bad or failed starter capacitor for the fan motor in the blower assembly or outdoors at the compressor/condenser unit could also be leaving your system shut down, failing to start a blower motor fan indoors or outside the compressor condenser unit's fan, or compressor motor.

    If an electric motor hums but won't start or won't keep running the problem could be a bad start/run capacitor.

Of course a frozen bearing or burned-up compressor or motor or even low voltage can also mean a motor hums but won't start - we give links to those diagnostics in step 2 above.


Air Conditioner Won't Start or Stays Off Due to Condensate Pan Switch - details

Condensate tray lockout switch (C) Daniel Friedman

Condensate pan switch lockout: an attic or other air conditioner air handler condensate drip tray or drip pan located under an air handler is installed to catch air handler condensate leaks if the normal condensate drain system fails.

Some condensate pans have their own separate overflow drain (a proper installation) or share their drain with the normal condensate drain (an improper installation).

But on some air conditioning air handlers the installer may provide a condensate overflow pan switch rather than a separate pan drain line.

In this installation the switch is designed to turn off the air conditioning system if it finds condensate water in the overflow pan. The idea is to shut down the air conditioner before there is a more costly leak into the building insulation or ceiling.

Condensate leaks into the condensate pan can shut down the air conditioner.

In tracking down an air conditioner condensate leak, I found that the the condensate pump drain line, a small-diameter PVC pipe, was clogged with water mold.

That was why my air conditioner wasn't kicking on. It would of ended up costing at least a hundred dollars just for a service tech to fix something as simple as that. I had to take the pump apart and clean it. I took off the PVC drain line coming out of inside air conditioner and blow and clean it all out too. - Jacob Behrends, FL

(July 24, 2014) Randy said:

The central a/c in my Florida home (in late July) would not turn on and the temp in the house was well above the preset temp of 78. Fearing a complete failure (the system is 17 years old) I googled my problem and eventually found this very clear and concise Inspectapedia site.

The past few days I could hear water dripping in the condensate drip pan and new something was up as this never happened before. I climbed my ladder at 11:30p and sure enough the condensate float switch was parallel to the tray meaning it tripped and turned the a/c system off. Grabbed my shopvac and within minutes the immediate problem was solved - Now to clear the drain...Excellent DIY website!

So if your air conditioning system seems to be normal in all other respects but it simply won't turn on, check for a flooded condensate pan or a defective condensate switch.

See CONDENSATE PAN OVERFLOW SWITCH in our description of HVAC switches & controls



Reader Comments & Q&A

@Fred deel,

As you replaced the motor and capacitor, I'd look next for a bad fan bearing that's binding and loading the motor, maybe worse when it's run for a while and is heated up.

Ac fan wouldn’t start could manually press contractors an it takes off a few hrs later can motor slows up an hums replaced motor an capacitor took right off whe it shuts down it won’t start back unless pressing contractors then it tAkes off but eventually motor comes to a crawl could it be fan relay or control board it’s a trane xl 1500 xi


You're correct, it looks as if I haven't correctly understood your comments and question.

I apologize.

Let me take another look at think about it a bit.

Keep in mind that I have only a microscopic bit of information compared to the people who've been to your site. I can't be smarter than they are.


Would you say AC and furnace shutting off I'm a little confused.

Are you saying that in heating mode and then cooling mode your system shuts down and stays down for a long.?

And are you saying and heating mode that happens even when the outdoor compressor condenser unit isn't running?

In other words are you running on some other heat sources such as gas or oil?

So you can see that from afar, without a bit more detail we're not sure just what equipment we're discussing.

If I were to GUESS that by "furnace" you're referring to the indoor air handler that blows both cool air in cooling mode and warm air in heating mode,
if I were to GUESS that you're asking about a heat pump system that provides both heating and cooling,
I would ask if your investigators included, in troubleshooting, a shut down caused by high head pressure at the compressor that in turn can be caused when a refrigerant metering device like a capillary tube or a TEV (Thermostatic Expansion Valve) freezes up or clogs with debris.

I really want to be helpful but beyond this we know so little about your installation that I worry about wasting your time sending you off in wrong direction. not sure what made you assume I haven't contacted someone or read the post prior to commenting. 2 different well known companies have been out. Even the owner of 1.. numerous times now. I also reviewed the page before I wrote the comment. I didn't see anything pertaining to the A/C and furnace both having the same issue in shutting off randomly and not starting for 12 or more hours. To me that wouldn't be "short" cycling. No errors on the circuit boards eirher. Thanks anyhow.


I agree that what you describe is really frustrating and annoying. But I've very little to go-on here.

Our most complete list of things to check for the air conditioner not starting problem that you described are given on the page above, better than I could type it a new here.

Please take a look, if you haven't already done so. It sounds as if you need an experienced Heating and AC refrigeration service technician on site.

Have you tried a conversation with the local A/C service company service-manager to ask for a senior technician.

Hi! I hope someone can help. For almost 2 years the unit in my rental shuts down after running and will not start back up for hours. They keep sending someone out and it fixes nothing. They've tried everything and can't figure it out. I'm getting sick of it. It happens during heating and cooling. Please help. ♥️ Thank you.

Let's start by checking the diagnostic steps given on the page above, Dorie.

My heat and central air suddenly stopped today. My thermostat clicks but nothing happens. Hmm.
Any ideas?

Still this sounds like a control board problem to me, but I'd start by reviewing the thermostat wiring;

it's also diagnostic to note whether this is a new problem or is one that's been present since installation

If I switched to the Heat mode on thermostat control, the fan blower to blow air inside the house works fine on Auto/on selections. When I switched to A/C mode, the fan blower NOT working on Auto and On selections, but the compressor Fan and everything seems working fine outside the house, The furnace control board status lights "RED" (Normal).

Please help !


Air conditioner start/run capacitors (C) ToddHave you done a detailed diagnostic of just where power is present or not?

At the control switch, at the board, at relays, etc.?

What about a slow-draining condensate pan and a condensate pan switch that shuts off the unit?

And incidentally, you can have a failed start capacitor that isn't bulged. It's pretty easy and inexpensive to try swapping in a new one.

Sometimes my AC will not turn on. I have tried a number of things to troubleshoot this problem. To be more specific my thermostat(s) will call for cooling, the (attic located) furnace blower will start but the condenser unit fan will not be running and the system will just circulate warm (ambient temperature) air. The issue can be temporally resolved by removing power to the (attic) furnace and then connecting it again.

Unplugging the heater and plugging it back in. I typically accomplish this by flipping the furnace breaker in my electrical panel, though I have gone into the attic and simply unplugged the furnace from the electrical outlet just as a test. After power cycling the furnace, the system will cool normally. That fix typically lasts about 24 hours before I have to power cycle the furnace again.

A couple years ago we had a problem with the system which turned out to be the Furnace Control Board. The technician that I called to come out fixed the board by reflowing the solder at one point on the board. A problem he had seen before. This fix worked. Thinking that this board was the source of my problems

, I replaced the board with a new board from ICM Controls. This, unfortunately did not fix the problem.

After installing the new board everything was working normally, the test sequence worked as indicated, heating and cooling checked out when I set my stats for heat and then cool. After a period of time though, the same issue with the AC condenser fan not kicking on returned.

I inspected the electronics for the condensing unit yesterday and didn't see anything that stood out as a problem.

The capacitor is not bulging and everything appears to be connected properly. I even disconnected all the leads, applied dielectric grease to them and reconnected them. Still last night the problem returned. I tripped the breaker for the furnace and cooling resumed again.

I also have a zone controller in my attic. Two thermostats connect to the zone controller, zone controller connects to the furnace control board and drives two dampers in the ductwork to direct cooling to upstairs, downstairs or both. I see no signs of any issue with the zone controller.

I checked the LEDs on the zone controller while the AC was not working properly and found no fault or error indications. The zone controller is powered from a transformer inside the furnace so when power cycling the furnace, the zone controller is power cycled as well. I have not yet tried bypassing the zone controller.


Continue reading  at BURNED-OUT COMPRESSOR or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see AIR CONDITIONER WON'T START FAQs diagnostic questions & answers posted originally at this page.

Or see these

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Suggested citation for this web page

AIR CONDITIONER WON'T STARTat - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

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Technical Reviewers & References

Click to Show or Hide Citations & References
  • Timothy Hemm, Yucala, CA, contributed photographs of electrical wiring and equipment installed in California buildings. Mr. Hemm can be contacted at [email protected]
  • Thanks to reader and research scientist Cyril Roberts, Barbados, for technical discussion and investigation of air conditioning system dehumidification problems (April 2009).
  • Thanks to readers Beth & Dennis for asking about how to improve an inadequate air conditioning system supplying cool air through crawl space ducts and floor registers. (May 2010).
  • Thanks to reader William Smith for discussing cooling coil leaks and lost cooling capacity diagnosis - June 2010
  • Thanks to reader Jacob Behrends, FL for discussing how a clogged condensate drain line can overflow condensate into a condensate pan that in turn may contain a safety switch that shuts down the whole air conditioning system. August 2010.
  • Determining Electric Motor Load and Efficiency, U.S. Department of Energy, web search 08/01/2011, original source: [copy on file at]

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

  • Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.
  • Complete List of Air Conditioning & Heat Pump Design, Inspection, Repair Books at the InspectAPedia Bookstore.
  • Modern Refrigeration and Air Conditioning, A. D. Althouse, C.H. Turnquist, A. Bracciano, Goodheart-Willcox Co., 1982
  • Principles of Refrigeration, R. Warren Marsh, C. Thomas Olivo, Delmar Publishers, 1979
  • "Air Conditioning & Refrigeration I & II", BOCES Education, Warren Hilliard (instructor), Poughkeepsie, New York, May - July 1982, [classroom notes from air conditioning and refrigeration maintenance and repair course attended by the website author]
  • Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Technology, 5th Ed., William C. Whitman, William M. Johnson, John Tomczyk, Cengage Learning, 2005, ISBN 1401837654, 9781401837655 1324 pages
  • ...
  • Carson, Dunlop &Associates Ltd., TorontoCarson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email: [email protected] The firm provides professional HOME INSPECTION SERVICES and also extensive HOME INSPECTION EDUCATION and home inspection-related PUBLICATIONS. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.

    Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material.

    The ILLUSTRATED HOME illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors.
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  • Home Reference Book - Carson Dunlop AssociatesThe HOME REFERENCE BOOK - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume.
    Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.

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    GO TO Carson Dunlop's Home Study Course Information - How to Become a Home Inspector: Carson Dunlop's nationally recognized Home Study Course, selected by ASHI the American Society of Home Inspectors and other professionals and associations. This website author is a contributor to this course.    GO TO Carson Dunlop's Home Study Course Information - How to Become a Home Inspector: Carson Dunlop's nationally recognized Home Study Course, selected by ASHI the American Society of Home Inspectors and other professionals and associations. This website author is a contributor to this course.   GO TO Carson Dunlop's Home Study Course Information - How to Become a Home Inspector: Carson Dunlop's nationally recognized Home Study Course, selected by ASHI the American Society of Home Inspectors and other professionals and associations. This website author is a contributor to this course.
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Bard Defrost Board Sequence \u0026 Troubleshooting

Reversing Valve

Reversing valves don’t often fail, but when they do it can cause a lot of confusion while troubleshooting. There are three main things that can cause a reversing valve to malfunction:

  1. The valve is stuck in the heating or cooling position.
  2. The coil is defective.
  3. The valve is leaking internally.

1. If the valve sticks, it will not change from the heating to the cooling position or vice versa. Make sure the reversing valve is energized. Use your voltmeter to ensure the proper voltage is at the solenoid coil, then hold a small screw driver close to the coil to see if there is a magnetic field present. If the coil is energized, check to make sure there is a pressure difference between the high side to the low side when the unit is running. The reversing valve is a pilot operated valve and requires a pressure differential to operate.

If you suspect the valve is stuck, take a soft object like the plastic handle of your screwdriver and tap on either side of the valve body. This may free the valve. If it does, force the valve to change positions several times to verify it is operating freely. If it does, the problem may be resolved. If the problem reoccurs, the valve should be replaced.

2. A defective solenoid coil will not energize the valve in the cooling mode. (Some manufacturers energize the valve in the heating mode, make sure you check). This can be determined by using the voltmeter and screwdrivertest outlined above. If there is voltage to the valve and no magnetic field present, the coil has an open circuit. In this case, only the solenoid coil needs to be replaced.

3. An internal leak in the valve is difficult to troubleshoot and is often confused with a compressor that is not pumping to capacity. Both a leaking reversing valve and a failing compressor have the same symptoms – both the heating and cooling capacity of the system are diminished. This is because the compressor continues to pump the gas around and around inside the leaking valve and usable refrigeration is lost in the process.

When a reversing valve leaks, it leaks from the high side to the low side. To check for a leaking valve, measure the difference in temperature between the suction line from the evaporator and the permanent suction line on the reversing valve (usually the middle line on the bottom). The temperature difference should not be more than 3F. If the temperature differential is greater than 3F, the valve must be replaced.

Note – Take the temperature at least 5 inches from the valve body to keep the temperature of the valve body from affecting your reading.

Keep these three procedures in mind, and when you come across a bad reversing valve it will be a cinch to troubleshoot.

by Ron Walker

Ron Walker
Ron Walker

After retiring from the U.S. Marines and achieving his B.S. degree, Ron Walker entered the HVAC field. He has been an HVAC technician, service manager, and business owner. Working as a service manager, he spent many years training HVAC technicians to be more technically competent and really understand their trade. His passion for teaching and helping others resulted in the creation of HVAC Training Solutions, LLC.

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Heat troubleshooting bard pump

Bard Geothermal Heat Pump Problems Recipes



2014-01-09  · A geothermal heat pump is one of the most trouble-free ways to stay cozy through Northern Michigan's snowy winters and keep cool on the warmest summer days. Even with proper geothermal heat pump maintenance, though, sometimes things go wrong. When that happens, a little troubleshooting can help you get your system running again. Most of the following tips will apply to …
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2010-04-14  · Geothermal Heat Pump Has Lost Heat There isn't much point in having a heat pump which doesn't produce heat, and this is a problem that you need to deal with right away. Failure to heat is probably the first sign that something is wrong, but a complete lack of heat suggests a couple of simple reasons that you can fix in a few minutes.
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The Bard GEOTEC® Geothermal/Water Source Packaged Heat Pump delivers economical year-round comfort by utilizing nature’s most abundant and efficient solar energy collector – the earth. The GV Series heat pumps are designed for low water flow rates and offer cooling efficiencies up to 30.6 EER and heating efficiencies up to 5.4 COP on ground water, and cooling efficiencies up to 26.2 EER ...
Brand Bard Manufacturing
Product group GEO-TEC
Product family Water-Source Heat Pumps
Unique ref. bard-1010
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With geothermal HVAC systems, some of the problems are pretty unique. After all, a ground source system heat pump has several components not found in most HVAC setups. We'll take a look at some of the most common geothermal heat pump problems you're likely to face. But first… It's good to recognize the signs that there's a problem.
Phone 4047989672
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4 Ton 21.7 EER 2 Stage Bard GeoTec Geothermal Heat Pump Vertical Package Unit. Item: HA17356. Model: GV51S3AAX. Condition: New. Ask a question. Zoom. Photo Gallery . Availability: Built to order . $7,050.04. Ingram Financing *Heat Exchanger Material * Required Fields. Qty: Add to Cart . Ships Within 4-6 Weeks. Ships Freight . Price Match . Not Quite Ready to Order? Click Here to Save this to a ...
Brand Bard
Compressor Two Stage
Avg Coverage Area 2,000-2,400 Sq Ft
Cooling Capacity 4 Ton
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2019-09-25  · The Bard GEOTEC® Geothermal/Water Source Packaged Heat Pump delivers economical year-round comfort by utilizing nature’s most abundant and efficient solar energy collector – the earth. The GV Series heat pumps are designed for low water flow rates and offer cooling efficiencies up to 30.6 EER and heating efficiencies up to 5.4 COP on ground water, and cooling efficiencies up to …
Brand Bard Manufacturing
Product group GEO-TEC
Product family Water-Source Heat Pumps
Unique ref. bard-1010
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Bard Manufacturing is a fourth-generation family-owned business that has been a leading provider of SPVU climate control solutions for over 100 years. We are recognized for designing, manufacturing and servicing high-quality products that you can trust to deliver performance, innovative technology and reliability. Here at Bard we provide customized climate control solutions that tailor to the ...
Brand Bard Manufacturing
Product group GEO-DELTA
Product family Water-Source Heat Pumps
Unique ref. bard-1012
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My mom got a Coldflow geothermal heat pump for her condo 20 years ago. She liked the look of the stainless steel cabinet. One customer bought a used geothermal off of Craigslist in nice shape for $500.00 and used an open loop for the water supply. He probably spent less than $1,000.00 to change his old inefficient heater to a Geothermal. His payback was a few months instead of years. He got ...
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Bard Manufacturing is recognized as a pioneer in the geothermal HVAC industry. Since 1981, Bard has been developing a growing line of geothermal products that utilize a safe, renewable and plentiful energy source. Ride the Wave of Pure Comfort. GEO-DELTA water-2-water unit provides the cozy warmth and cool relief you need to be comfortable – regardless of the weather outside. The smart ...
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Bard geothermal heat pumps are designed to fit both new construction and existing homes. Our modern systems can replace inefficient boilers and other traditional heating sources. It’s not only environmentally friendly, but it’s budget friendly, too, offering substantial cost savings once installed. As more architects, developers and builders turn to environmentally friendly designs and ...
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Heat Pump Only: $3,500-$7,500. Complete System, Installed: $10,000-$25,000+. Also called ground-source or geo-exchange, a geothermal heat pump is an electrically powered heating and cooling system that transfers heat between the house and the earth by circulating fluid through long loops of underground pipe.
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2014-07-23  · Standard heat pump problems: Keep in mind that for all its advantages, a geothermal system is still a heat pump similar in many ways to an air-source heat pump and can suffer from the same types of repair problems. The interior cabinet components could suffer from breakdowns due to wear and tear, such as broken blower motors, electrical connection failures, and frost appearing over …
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Carrier Geothermal Heat Pump Reviews. Carrier Geothermal Heat Pump Reviews - Carrier offers a full line of geothermal heat pump systems that range in efficiency ratings from 21.7 EER up to 37 EER and with various cabinet configurations to fit most types of applications. Efficiency ratings on Geothermal...
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Bard has built its reputation for quiet, comfortable and reliable heating and cooling systems since 1914, and innovative geothermal systems since 1981. {Geothermal technology utilizes the most efficient energy collector; the Earth.} {Geothermal heating and cooling uses a renewable source of energy.} {Quality design, engineering, and factory ...
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Since the early 1980s, Bard has been on the leading edge of the design and manufacturing of geothermal heat pumps, providing smart consumers with a safe, renewable and plentiful fuel source to heat and cool their homes. The best part is, while Bard GEOTEC Heat Pumps are saving energy, they’re also saving our customers money. The combination of Bard quality and year-round energy …
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When your air conditioning breaks and it's hot outside, the last thing you want to do is wait. Expert Express is the most experienced air conditioning and c...
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Bard Geothermal units come with a 5 year warranty, however many early GHP units are still functioning after 25-30 years of use. The underground polyethylene pipe carries a 50 year warranty and a estimated usable life span of 200 years. a. How long has geothermal technology been around? Geothermal heat pumps were originally developed in the 1940’s. Their popularity has slowly increased until ...
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2011-03-06  · BARD Water Source Heat Pump StartUp Problem. Hello all. Open loop system out of a well. Well pump stopped working due to bad pressure switch which has been fixed. Purged all air out of waterlines and did restart procedure as outlined in installation manual. Green "check" light is on at thermostat and compressor will not kick on no matter what ...
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TROUBLESHOOTING OF A GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMP John Riffe Geothermal Tech. & Field Support Auer Steel & Heating Supply Co. DocumentsPDF Complete Click Here & Upgrade Expanded Features Unlimited Pages. WSHP/GSHP Unit Heat Pump Components-Compressor-Refrigerant Reversing Valve-Fluid Heat Exchanger (Coax)-Metering Device (TXV)-Air Heat Exchanger (Air Coil) - …
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Bard is the first to design a multi-component geothermal unit. The Geo-Trio™’s three main parts, A-coil, blower, compressor, are each self-contained. When installed, the units lock together. The end result is one solid unit – similar to a traditional unit, but with more configuration options. Constructed for easier installation. Three pieces means your installer can configure the blower ...
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2012-04-24  · Its a 5ton Bard Heat Pump. Do you have any recommendation of a good flushing solution? The manual says: Acid Cleaning the Water Coil or Heat Pump. Recovery Unit. If scaling of the coil is strongly suspected, the coil can be cleaned up with a solution of Phosphoric Acid (food grade acid). fastmat23, Apr 24, 2012. #5.
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Bard Compressor Control Module (CCM) Sequence Of Operation (Updated)

Heat Pump Troubleshooting, A Step By Step Repair Guide

With this heat pump troubleshooting guide, you can diagnose and repair the most common problems in a residential heat pump system. Most of the checks can be performed with common household tools and a little bit of basic knowledge. (You provide the tools and we will help with the knowledge.) This guide is for units that are connected to an indoor air handler and transfer the heat through a duct system. The typical service call will cost you over $100. With the help of this guide, you can do your own heat pump repairs and keep that money.

HvacRepairGuy now offers free live help with all your heat pump problems by clicking on the chat widget.


Before troubleshooting begins, it is important to ensure that the routine maintenance has been performed on the system. If the routine maintenance has been done, it is time to find the problem.

A heat pump has two basic modes of operation and the steps to diagnosing a problem are a little different. When troubleshooting in the cooling mode, the process is basically the same as diagnosing and repairing a ducted central air conditioner.

Does the unit provide any heat?

If your system is not providing any heat to the home, then you can begin your heat pump troubleshooting at the thermostat. Ensure that it is on heat and set above the room temperature. If you have a digital thermostat, then set the desired temperature to about 2-4 degrees above room temperature. This should make only the heat pump part come on and not the backup electric elements. (If you do not have a digital thermostat, we would highly recommend replacing your thermostat.) Now, turn the fan switch to on.

Is the fan on the furnace/air handler running?

If the fan doesn't start, then check the fuses/breakers for the air handler or furnace. If the breaker was tripped, the problem could be a bad wiring connection, the blower motor, or the control board. If the breaker was not tripped, the problem could be the thermostat, low voltage wiring, or the fan relay.

If the fan is running, turn the thermostat to emergency heat. Ensure that the setpoint is at least 5 degrees above room temp. Wait for about a minute, then check to see if warm air is coming out the vents. If there is, then the problem is with the outdoor unit.

If there is not, the problem could be the thermostat or something in the air handler. You can use our electric furnace troubleshooting guide to diagnose and repair the problem.

Heat Pump Troubleshooting, At the outdoor unit

If you have decided the problem is with the outdoor unit, return the thermostat to normal from emergency heat. Wait a couple of minutes, then continue your heat pump troubleshooting at the outdoor unit.

Is there a lot of ice/frost buildup on the unit? If there is, The problem is either a defrost control or the unit could be low on refrigerant. You can test the defrost control by manually forcing it to defrost. On older units, they had a defrost timer motor and you could manually advance the timer motor to initiate defrost. If you do so and the unit does not go into defrost, the timer motor is probably bad. On newer units, they have an electronic defrost control board. They typically have a set of pins that are jumped to manually initiate defrost. If you do so and the unit does not enter defrost mode, the board is probably bad.

Is the outdoor fan running? If it is not and you live in a colder area, the unit may have an outdoor thermostat installed. If it is colder than the setpoint the unit will not run. Otherwise, you should continue your heat pump troubleshooting by checking the high pressure cutout, for a wiring problem, the fan motor, or the run capacitor.

If the fan is running, feel the refrigerant lines. The bigger line should be warm. If it is not, the problem could be a wire in the unit, the compressor run capacitor, compressor, or the unit could be low on refrigerant.

**NOTE** It is best to check the charge of a heat pump with the unit running in the cooling mode. If possible, wait until the outdoor temperature is above 55 degrees.

Final Checks

The final step in your heat pump troubleshooting should be to run the unit through a normal heating cycle. It is a good idea to check the temperature rise of the system after it has been running for 10-15 minutes. You can do so by measuring the temperature of the air coming out of the vents and the temperature of the air entering the fan coil. Subtract the entering air temperature from the leaving air temperature to find the temperature rise. This should typically be 15 to 20 degrees.


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Thread: Bard Over/under not heating

The unit may have a mechanical problem but with the info provided, it's really not possible to do anything but wild, opinionated guesses.

2-years old? What did the original load analysis (Manual 'J') call for in Btu's for heating?

What is the model # of the outdoor unit? Model # of the indoor unit(s)?

IMO, the electric resistance heaters should be sized appropriately to heat the home totally, using just the electric resistance heat. If you've got the Model # for those or the electrical ratings, we could also help determine proper sizing.

Honestly, if you've truly got a 2-stage heat pump, it sounds like it's not switching to 2nd stage and is therefore undersized for the job it's trying to do. That could be a miswired thermostat or the wrong thermostat entirely, a bad control board at either the indoor or outdoor units, an under charge of refrigerant (replaced TXV, could have a very slow leak or somewhere else in the system), a bad defrost board, bad 4-way valve, the list is almost endless. It is also possible that when the electric resistant heat is on, the unit is stuck in defrost mode, which is a modified cooling mode, which could also account for cool supply outlet temps. Again, all the things that we can think of to create the symptoms you're talking about are almost endless. Dirt coils either indoor or outdoors, geesh! I could go on and on. We need more info.

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