E34 seat twist

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mystic_525_tds

06-15-2008, 04:57 AM

ok i got the e32 seats delivered and they are in good condition, i set out today to fit them, removed my drivers seat then had a look under the e32 drivers seat and there is nowhere for my plug to go, as suggested on my previous post about this i might need an extra wiring loom, i dont know what i need and i have looked at the wiring diagrams on the web and i dont understand them, i though i might be able to to a diy job on wiring the seat up or do i really need the proper wiring loom ?

i plugged the passenger non memory seat in, only 4 of the 5 adjustments owrk, the one that moves the seat back and forward does not work, what a bummer.

anyway here is the wiring under my drivers seat, the typical 12 pin found under many e34 seats although mine only has 4 wires

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v256/mystic_bertie/E34/DSCF0383.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v256/mystic_bertie/E34/DSCF0382.jpg

here is the wiring under the e32 drivers memory seat, all the memory module is under this seat but these connectrions i believe are for memory mirrors and memory steering column.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v256/mystic_bertie/E34/DSCF0375.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v256/mystic_bertie/E34/DSCF0377.jpg


mystic_525_tds

06-15-2008, 04:58 AM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v256/mystic_bertie/E34/DSCF0378.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v256/mystic_bertie/E34/DSCF0379.jpg


shogun

06-15-2008, 05:39 AM

The memory module for the E32 is for all responsible, not only for the mirrors.
Memory steering column was very rare on the E32, I have it only on a 03/1994 750iL, which was the last production month of the E32. As far as I can remember, memroy steering column in E32 was only in the last production series, all others had manual adjustable steering columns and only telescopic style.

You even did not indicate out of which production year/month the seats come. Here some pics of the cable connectors under an E32 750iL Highline out of 12/1992 production.
http://infinitier.ddo.jp/e32/page/mainte/mainte_047.htm


Go to my website below and download the following:

Seat & Mirror Memory Training Reference Book (1.04MB)


mystic_525_tds

06-15-2008, 06:35 AM

hi mate i dont know what year the seats came from, i bought them off ebay, the guy selling them got them from somewhere but it was not his car he had a few interiors for sale but was not a car breaker. ill ask him what year the donor car was.

i was also told the wiring loom he has cut through is what i need ie the extention wiring loom and can cost £70 from bmw

i cant get into that link its asking for a password and login


mystic_525_tds

06-16-2008, 02:37 PM

link working now and i seent he pics cheers dude

i am biting my tongue here and trying not to give the seller a mouthful, i have asked him to see if he can get the rest of the loom from the breakers, so he says he will pop down and see if its still there so fingers crossed.


nirvana19

07-13-2008, 11:26 PM

I have this same issue. I pulled a set of E32 seats but the driver's side has all the memory functions, and the white connector doesn't seem to plug in anywhere. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to swap the wiring from my old seat (everythings working on that), probably not too bad, but I'd rather make this work.

I have to head to lancaster tomorrow so I can actually go back to the yard and spend time and get whatever parts I want. What else should I pull for the memory system? Is there any other module aside from the big black one? And does anyone know where the other end of the harness that connects to all the plugs goes.. I can't seem to find the fitting EWD in my E34 stuff. Would definitely be nice to make everything work, else i'll just convert my current seats.


mystic_525_tds

07-14-2008, 05:34 AM

if your old seats have memory the wiring loom that goes from the seats to the white connector should fit, i complained to the seller for cutting the cable on mine, it turned out he was breaking another e32 with memory seats so he sent me the wiring loom, this plugs into my white plug and into the seats, i have not had time to fit the seats as i just moved house but the wiring loom for the memory seats is necessary, i was told on another forum that you cant get the memory features to work so you have to earth 1 wire to use it as a normal electric seat.


nirvana19

07-14-2008, 03:53 PM

if your old seats have memory the wiring loom that goes from the seats to the white connector should fit, i complained to the seller for cutting the cable on mine, it turned out he was breaking another e32 with memory seats so he sent me the wiring loom, this plugs into my white plug and into the seats, i have not had time to fit the seats as i just moved house but the wiring loom for the memory seats is necessary, i was told on another forum that you cant get the memory features to work so you have to earth 1 wire to use it as a normal electric seat.

I just pulled the entire wiring memory wiring harness with the exception of the part that runs up to the dashboard (i think this is for steering column.. don't know what else). This includes the plugs for the mirrors, though I don't have them. All the potentiometers pertaining to the seat controls are present. Did anyone determine if the memory function would work without feedback from the mirrors and/or steering column?

The build date of the donor car (or at least the seat according to the stamping inside the back cover) is January 1992, which I guess makes this the "early system" for memory described in some previous threads.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31854&highlight=E32+seats+E34

Kalevera hadn't tried out the early system, perhaps someone else has?


nirvana19

07-24-2008, 11:21 AM

Just an update, my car had the same body harness as mystic's. From the wiring harness, you just connect the seat connections and white plug for the body, then are brownish ground connection and all the power functions of the seat work. I still haven't experimented with the memory function since I haven't even sorted the seat twist.. but that will come.


mystic_525_tds

07-24-2008, 11:41 AM

Just an update, my car had the same body harness as mystic's. From the wiring harness, you just connect the seat connections and white plug for the body, then are brownish ground connection and all the power functions of the seat work. I still haven't experimented with the memory function since I haven't even sorted the seat twist.. but that will come.


glad to hear they work ok dude, i still have not fitted them i have been so busy since i moved house a few weeks ago and my seats are stored at my mums i was going to go get them this weekend and then fit them.

i have heard of the 'twist ' problem are you doing something to fix this if so what, im not sure what the seat twist is ?


mystic_525_tds

07-28-2008, 11:20 AM

glad to hear they work ok dude, i still have not fitted them i have been so busy since i moved house a few weeks ago and my seats are stored at my mums i was going to go get them this weekend and then fit them.

i have heard of the 'twist ' problem are you doing something to fix this if so what, im not sure what the seat twist is ?

wee update

i have moved house so it took me ages before i had time to fit the seats, anyway i managed to get the wiring loom from the seller as he broke another e32 with electric seats. so he sent me the wiring for £10 inc postage.

i got the front seats in fine and working, although i had to earth one wire to bypass the memory (thanks to Geeza for this vital info) anyway the seat works as a standard electric seat but no memory function but im happy with that, these seats are super comfy and i feel posh having electric adjustment

back seats are a tight squeeze indeed but i got there and i would say i dont need to alter the back seat for the doors to shut so no need to modify the seats, there is 1 problem though, the seat belt clips cant get into the holders as the seat stops them getting in fully so im going to try bending the base of one of the holders to bring it forward so hoping that will fix that unless someone has a better suggestion.

a couple of questions , the seatbelt tension wire thing below the seat, one of them seems faulty and does not pull out as far as it shoul, does this actually make any difference to anything ??

i have a few spare feet of cable under the drivers seat im wondering how i should tidy and route it rather than leave it sitting tucked away as i believe there is a seat twist problem or something that affects the wiring?

anyhoo im finally happy with my e32 electric seats, will get some grey leather restorer to enhance them a bit


nirvana19

07-30-2008, 07:33 PM

The seat twist problem is related to the flexible shaft cables which run between the seat motors and gearing. There are two cables for each seat function because the gearing goes to both sides of the seats. Seat twist occurs when the cable somehow shrinks and the shaft pops out of one end, so only one side of the seat works for certain functions. If your seat is working fine don't worry about it, the electrical wiring doesn't affect this.


mystic_525_tds

07-31-2008, 12:59 PM

The seat twist problem is related to the flexible shaft cables which run between the seat motors and gearing. There are two cables for each seat function because the gearing goes to both sides of the seats. Seat twist occurs when the cable somehow shrinks and the shaft pops out of one end, so only one side of the seat works for certain functions. If your seat is working fine don't worry about it, the electrical wiring doesn't affect this.


thanks mate now i know i dont need to worry, many thanks :)


nirvana19

09-08-2008, 06:47 PM

Just a very delayed update, I'm in college and a coast away from my car (its in DC, i'm in CA) however before I left I hooked up my 7-series memory seats from a early 92 production model and the seat memory worked! I was quite shocked and didn't do any modifications, just plugged it in and in worked. I thought this would only work with 93 builds but it seems at least some 92 production variants also work without input from the mirrors.

On a more annoying note I dyed my seats the wrong color AND noticed that the seats originally in my car were gathered so the front doesn't match the rear. argh, still looks quite nice though.


Panzer Captain

10-04-2008, 07:38 PM

Will I have any problems installing E32 power memory seats into my E34 with manual seats?


nirvana19

10-04-2008, 11:04 PM

Will I have any problems installing E32 power memory seats into my E34 with manual seats?

I believe your car would have the same standard plugs my car does (they were all prewired even if you didn't originally have power seats). Make sure you have the full wiring harness from the E32 (its quite massive), and you can ground it to one of the parking brake adjustment cables for a clean install. Can't guarantee the memory will work like it did for me but the seat adjustments at least should work.

Also, this really just applies to the drivers seats as the passengers seat doesn't have memory and is identical to the non-memory cars.


adrian525tds

12-28-2008, 02:33 PM

if your old seats have memory the wiring loom that goes from the seats to the white connector should fit, i complained to the seller for cutting the cable on mine, it turned out he was breaking another e32 with memory seats so he sent me the wiring loom, this plugs into my white plug and into the seats, i have not had time to fit the seats as i just moved house but the wiring loom for the memory seats is necessary, i was told on another forum that you cant get the memory features to work so you have to earth 1 wire to use it as a normal electric seat.

Hello Mystic,
I too am trying to fit a memory driver's seat to my 525tds. I have the memory wiring loom that goes between the white connector under the carpet and the various connectors on the seat and the seat memory controller but when everything is plugged in the memory light just flashes and none of the buttons do anything. I'm guessing perhaps the memory controller is unhappy because all the wires that would have gone to the mirror potentiometers, transmission indicator, steering column etc. have been cut.

Is this the same problem you solved by grounding a wire? Please could you post the details as I'm keen to try to get the seats working using the existing wiring before I have to cut everything and wire the switches up to the motors from scratch.


Dave M

12-28-2008, 03:04 PM

Hello Mystic,
I too am trying to fit a memory driver's seat to my 525tds. I have the memory wiring loom that goes between the white connector under the carpet and the various connectors on the seat and the seat memory controller but when everything is plugged in the memory light just flashes and none of the buttons do anything. I'm guessing perhaps the memory controller is unhappy because all the wires that would have gone to the mirror potentiometers, transmission indicator, steering column etc. have been cut.

Is this the same problem you solved by grounding a wire? Please could you post the details as I'm keen to try to get the seats working using the existing wiring before I have to cut everything and wire the switches up to the motors from scratch.

You're not likely to get a response from such an old thread. Try to pm (private message) the original poster or start a new thread with links to this one.

Good luck with it,

Dave


nirvana19

12-28-2008, 11:59 PM

Hmm, I might be able to offer some insight. I'm not sure what memory light you speak of, but when I installed the memory seats the seat had a very large wiring harness which came with it which has it's own ground. Without grounding this, the seat functions would not work at all (not only memory, the seat won't move). My memory function does work, but I'm told some of the later ones will not work if the mirrors and such are not attached. If anyone knows a bit about potentiometers (I did some research when I wasn't sure if the memory would work) it seems as though it wouldn't be that tricky to look at a wiring diagram and solder in a few resistors or something into the wiring harness to give fake values to the memory computer so it will be happy.


adrian525tds

01-05-2009, 03:24 AM

Thanks - there are more pins in the seat side of the harness than the connector under the carpet so I'll dig out my wiring diagrams and try to identify the ground wire. Hopefully I should be able to wire in some resistors in place of the mirror potentiometers too.


adrian525tds

02-05-2009, 04:09 AM

For anyone else who may need to do this - the wire you need to connect to ground is brown / orange. With this connected the seat controls work, though the memory computer does not - perhaps it notices that the memory mirrors, door jamb switch or reverse transmission switch are missing.


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  1. 03-14-2015, 04:28 PM#1
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    1994 e34 seat twist repair link

    I just took both front seats out of my 1994 540i. Can someone point me to a seat twist repair link. I searched here and could not find one.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. 03-14-2015, 04:32 PM#2
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  3. 03-14-2015, 04:42 PM#3
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    Thanks for the links.
    I just found this video which was pretty good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NMBnHs7aK0
    I just wish he said at the beginning to get the seat straight before disconnecting it from the power..........I am gonna have to eye ball it now as the seats are on a bench.....will try a power drill to get the seats straight before starting to cut the rubber sheath.

  4. 03-14-2015, 04:46 PM#4
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    Manual is good, manual sports is best.

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89-03 Bmw E34 E39 E38 Bmw 530i 525i 540i M5 Seats Problems, Twisted Seats on 2040-parts.com

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The EASY Way To Fix BMW M5 E38 E39 E34 Twisted Seat Back And Seat Bottom

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    Seat twist e34

    If you’re an owner of a BMW E39 5-series between the years or 1997-2003 then odds are you may experience or have experienced what is known as seat twisting when trying to recline or raise the back of your seat. There’s probably many other BMW’s that experience this issue but the following fix is done on a ’99 BMW 540i some some steps may differ if you have another model or year BMW.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-004

    This rather annoying occurrence means you either leave your seat reclined in one position for the rest of its life or fix it! Which isn’t that difficult and aside from a few supplies it’s doesn’t cost you anything but time.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-030

    The reason the twisting occurs is that the back of the seat’s left and ride side are independently controlled through cable operated electric motors and almost always one side cable fails not both hence the awkward twisting of the seat.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-014

    What you see in the photo above is the culprit of all our troubles. It’s the cable that operates the recline/raise function and over time the plastic shielding around it ages and expands which causes the cable to retract out of the electric motor that spins it. Thankfully, the fix can be done by any novice DIY mechanic.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-029

    Start be removing the twisting seat from the car. There are four bolts holding it to the floor and an electrical harness that you have to disconnect before it’s free.

    Once it’s out of the car, flip it upside down and this is what you’ll be looking at.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-033

    Pro-tip: If you’re working on the passenger side seat, it has an additional cable attached to it that you’ll need to pop off and before the seat can come out. After you removed all the bolt, tilt the seat up which will give you easy access to it.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-003

    Look at the front of the seat base, we’ll need to get access to the electric motors but there’s no real way to get at them without lifting the metal base of the seat up and away.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-005

    Using a torx bit remove both bolts that hold the metal base to the seat.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-006

    There are two tension springs that are a bit of a pain to get at but using  vice grips and a lot of determination they’ll eventually unhook.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-007

    Remove the plastic trim that runs around the base of the seat. If you’re lucky like me you’ll find coffee stains and many stray strands of hair.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-008

    At this point, the base of the seat should swing up with relative ease. Place a block or similar object to hold it up. You’ll notice that I have already unplugged the connectors from the electric motors. If you haven’t done so yet now is a good time.

    BMW-e39-twisted-seat-repair-fix-009

    We got great access to the motors now but the battle isn’t over yet.

    123

    525i528i530i540iacademyBMWcompletecrookedDIYE34e39explainedfixguidehelphow-toinstallm5not movingnot workingreclinerepairseatsimplespeedtechThankftwisttwistedwon't raiseX5Z4

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    E34 Seat Twist Repair Part 1

    89-03 Bmw E34 E39 E38 Bmw 530I 525I 540I M5 Seats Problems, Twisted Seats

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    Seat-back Twist -- repair: e32, e34

    June 5, 2001
    revised Nov. 9, 2002 (added Peter K's method)


    There are several approaches for fixing the infamous seat-back twist. What happens is either the outer sheath of the drive cable(s) stretches or the inner cable shortens due to wind-up and it disengages either at the motor or at the worm drive for the seatback. It can be repaired with the seat either in or out of the car. Since it was my first attempt, I took the seat out & worked on it upsidedown on a pad. I'll reference two url's from the bimmer.org archives for this with due credit to the original authors:

    Bimmer.org 7 series archive, 1999 week28

    and

    Bimmer.org 7 series archive, 1999 week 35

    I used the method where you heat the metal thimble to pull it off, cut a length of the tube off & heat the thimble to fuse it back on again. I don't recommend the method where you insert a stub length of coat hanger or nail since with that method, it guarantees that one end or the other will have a minimum amount of engagement & may only be a temporary solution but I understand it works well for the headrest fix.

    Getting the seat out is straight forward: pop the headrest out, slide the seat forward, remove the two Torx bolts Photo-1 & Photo-1a in the rear & tilt the seat forward to disengage the front hooks Photo-1b. A 7/16 or 11 mm 12-point socket fits the Torx heads if you don't have a Torx "E14" socket. Remove the seatbelt bolt (also Torx E14) and unclip the clevis pin for the slender seatbelt shoulder height adjuster wire Photo-2 and let it hang free. Unplug the wire harness & the seat is free to come out. I'm not sure about later models, but you might have to disconnect the battery if the seat is wired to the SRS to avoid tripping a fault in the SRS memory which requires a trip to the dealer to reset (also have radio code handy if you disconnect the battery). My passenger seat doesn't trip the SRS, but I don't know about the driver's seat (92 735i).

    With the seat out, the front-most motor drives the seatbottom height adjustment, the motor just behind it drives the seatback tilt. remove one screw Photo-3 on each end of the motor & pivot the motor slightly to clear the metal cable ends & pull the cables straight out Photo-4, This photo is with the rear motor completely removed but it doesn't have to come all the way out. DON'T try to force the cable ends out without removing the motor screws.

    The drive cable is just like a speedometer cable with square ends. With the inner cable fully pushed in, the motor end should stick out about 1/2" to 5/8", one of mine was barely flush with the end. To shorten the outer sheath, pull the inner cable out, use a wire hook Photo-5 & remove the white nylon bushing, & heat the metal end with a propane torch on a low flame, or with a cigarette lighter, for a maximum of 8 to 10 seconds & pull the thimble off with a pair of pliers. Cool the nylon tube and cut about 3/8" off the end of it. Heat the thimble for 5 seconds & slide it back on fully to the depth of where the nylon bushing bottoms out, and chill it with an icecube.

    Grease the inner cable lightly & put it back in & reinsert the nylon bushing. Check that the cable end doesn't stick out beyond 5/8", if it's too long, it's better to heat the thimble & pull it out a little than to try to shorten the square end of the cable. I used a cordless drill to power the cable to get the alignment right again, moving it by hand is slow with no visible results. Go easy with the torque. I couldn't hit on an exact method to get it lined up precisely so I just eyeballed it. Once the seat is back in the car, you can adjust both seats the same & the lobes of the lower back side bolsters should all be in line.

    Probably the easiest & quickest way to fix it & the seat doesn't have to be remove, is to raise it all the way up & determine which cable(s) is involved & cut & splice the outer sheath, removing a 1/4" or so chunk & then butting the ends back together with a short length of fuel hose & hose clamps. Ref. Photo-6. Use a razor blade or sharp knife & make sure you only cut the outer plastic sheath & not the inner metal cable.

    Here's another method posted recently by "Imack" on the 7 board: instead of fooling with removing the motor screws, simply heat either of the thimble ends in place & pull the outer sheath out of the thimble, cut off the appropriate 1/4" or so & heat it & slide it back in. Just make sure to line the seat back up before reinserting the sheath. If you can raise the seat enough to get to it, you might even be able to apply the fix without removing the seat.

    Yet another method, submitted by Peter K:

    "So here's how I solved the problem. - I made the inner cable longer. When you have the cable on the workbench, pull out the inner cable. Clamp the square end vertically in your vice with the end about 4 mm proud of the vice. With a MIG welder, weld a spot on the end, let it cool, then another spot on top, let it cool, then another spot on top, and so on, until you reach the desired length. When cold, clamp the cable horizontally in the vice and file your weld back to a square. Reassemble and fit back in seat. It is important that the job is done in a vice, as the vice will take up excess heat, which could damage the flexi part of the inner cable."

    Re-assembly is reverse order of above. This will also work for the seat bottom height/tilt adjustment if it falls victim to the same malady.

    gale, 92 735i


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