Crf230f build

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13 Free & Practical CRF230F Mods To Make It Great

Are you looking to upgrade your Honda CRF230F? There’s many parts you can add to make it faster. This is the ultimate list of CRF230 mods that actually improve its performance. 

Are you ready to turn your “Little girl’s bike” into a “sleeper bike” that will make guys on bigger bikes look twice when pass them on the trails? I must warn you, though… The more mods you do, the more addicting it gets. And the more giggles you will have under your helmet when riding this “Little Red Pig”. 

Riding 2005 Honda CRF230F 13 Free & Practical CRF230F Mods To Make It Great

Performance Mods Part 1

This will be a 2 part series, just like when I covered the list of XR200 mods. Part 1 will be all about performance modifications that will make your CRF230 faster or make it easier to ride, which in turn will make you faster because you are more comfortable on it.

Some of these mods are free or cheap for how much of a difference they make. The CRF230F will never be the best motocross bike, but there’s a lot of potential hiding underneath. If you enjoy trail riding in the woods, mountains, or any kind of single-track, then you’re in for a surprise…

Here is the list of the 13 best CRF230 mods:

  • Airbox
  • Air filter
  • Rejet
  • Muffler
  • Rear shock
  • Forks
  • Tires
  • CDI Upgrade
  • Exhaust
  • Carb
  • Big bore kit
  • Camshaft
  • Porting
  • Flywheel key
  • Lightened flywheel
  • Adjustable camshaft sprocket

Is The CRF230F Power-Up Jet Kit Worth It?

Honda builds their off-road trail bikes to meet EPA and emission standards in certain countries. This means that they will run too lean in most climates. The CRF230 definitely needs to be re-jetted to get the most performance out of it. This includes both stock or modified 230F’s. 

Many 230 owners may realize this and do a quick search to find that there is a “CRF230 Power Up Jet Kit” (Amazon). This kit includes a new special needle, a couple different main jet sizes, and a new pilot jet. The cost is about $50, which is reasonable for an upgrade that makes a noticeable difference.

DIY & Save A Few Bucks

If you like tinkering on your bike with mods, then there’s a cheaper way to get the same amount of performance as the Power Up Jet Kit. Instead, you can buy individual main and pilot jets in addition to a stock 2003-2005 CRF230F needle. 

Stock Honda CRF230F Jetting Specs

The stock jetting on a CRF230F is lean for most climates, which is why the Power Up Jet kit is available. The stock pilot jet is a 42 and the main jet is a 110. Going up to a 45 pilot and a 120 main will gain power and throttle response in most cases. 

The 2003-2005 CRF230 comes with an adjustable needle. Going from the middle clip position to the 4th position from the top should also make an improvement. 

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Why Different Main Jets?

The power up jet kit needle has a different taper, so it requires a richer main jet than if you run the stock 03-05 needle. If you have the power up needle then it will run better with a 132-135 main jet if your bike is stock for average climates. A 120 main will run better with the stock 03-05 CRF230F needle.

How To Un-Cork Your CRF230F

A lot of trail bikes come corked or choked up from the factory. Usually for emission and sound limit reasons to meet EPA requirements. Changing the jets in the carb, as you just read, was part of the un-corking process.

The CRF230 has a baffle/restrictor on the intake and exhaust. These do help keep the sound output down, but they’re limiting some potential power. 

To un-cork a Honda CRF230F, simply remove the intake air box lid and exhaust baffle. Jetting must be changed if it’s still stock from the factory.

Air Box

The CRF230 has an average-sized air box, but there’s not much room for air to get in to reach the carb. The more air you can get through the carb, the more potential gas you can get through it as well, which will make more power. This is theoretical, of course, because the engine has to be able to properly burn all of that air and fuel to make the power.

Why do we install bigger carbs on dirt bikes? They suck more air in to boost the horsepower (when properly tuned). However, other factors come in to play, such as the velocity of the air. Air velocity is how fast the air is going through the intake, which plays a bigger role in low-end torque.

For example, when you go to a bigger carb the top-end power is increased, but some low-end torque is usually lost. To get into the science of it is interesting, but that’s not what this article is about.

Remove The Lid

There is a lid on the top of the airbox that can be removed to make the opening bigger. You’ll need to take the seat off to access it. 

A little more dust will be able to get in, but it’s generally worth it if you’re looking for more power. This is why it’s important to have a quality air filter that is regularly cleaned or changed. 

Air Filter

Going to a quality aftermarket air filter will also allow more air through, giving you more power and better throttle response. Just remember to keep it clean, especially if you ride in sandy/dusty areas. 

Muffler Baffle/End Cap

While the stock head pipe is the biggest restriction (more on this later), the factory muffler on the Honda 230 has a baffle with a built-in spark arrestor on it. This can be removed to gain some low-end torque and throttle response. 

However, this will greatly increase the sound decibel output. I don’t recommend this modification if you live in a suburban area with neighbors close by or if you ride at a trail/park that requires a USFS approved spark arrestor. 

20180802 105425 13 Free & Practical CRF230F Mods To Make It Great

Suspension

The last part of a trail bike that gets a technology update is usually the suspension. This is because affordable trail bikes are built for a beginner rider or someone that doesn’t have enough experience to tell a difference between good and bad suspension. 

The CRF230F suspension is 1970s technology, but that’s okay. It’s super simple, easy to work on, and reliable. The problem is that once you start riding at higher speeds over rough terrain, the stock forks and shock will beat you up and may even throw you off the bike.

What’s Your Budget & Timeframe?

There’s several options available for modifying or upgrading your CRF230 suspension, but the best options are hundreds of dollars. If you plan on keeping this bike for years to come, it may be worth your time, effort, and investment. 

Rear Shock

The rear shock is the most troublesome part on the CRF230 when it comes to performance. Honda continues to ignore this subpar, yet vital suspension component that can cause safety issues if you are an aggressive rider.

Stock Shock Woes

The stock shock on the 230 actually has a good spring rate for a medium sized beginner trail rider. The problem is the internal valving that can and will give you a hard time over rough terrain when you push the pace hard enough. 

The rebound damping is too slow. This is a problem when you have two consecutive bumps or obstacles that will compress the rear shock in a short amount of time.

The first bump will compress the shock, but the shock rebounds too slow. By the time you hit the second bump the shock is still trying to rebound. This will compress it even more than the first bump did. After that is when it will try to buck you off because it now can fully rebound, but it has a lot more built up force from compressing twice. 

Stock Shock Re-Valve

The stock shock can be re-valved by a professional, such as Bruce Triplett, but even he says that the stock CRF230F shock is limited. It’s the most affordable shock upgrade and will definitely make a difference, even if you’re an average rider with little experience.

Depending on who you send it to, it’ll be around 200 bucks. That’s not very expensive for a re-valve, but you’re missing out on any external adjustments for better performance, aside from the spring pre-load. 

Hagon Shock

A Hagon rear shock is a complete aftermarket shock for the 230F. It’s a big improvement over the stock shock, but it’s still limited due to lack of adjustability. It has a compression/rebound clicker adjustment, and the pre-load can be adjusted. There’s no remote reservoir or high speed damping.

Works/Other Shocks

There’s other aftermarket shocks that seem to come and go as far as resale and availability. The best shocks for a CRF230F generally have a remote reservoir with complete compression and rebound damping adjustment, as well as high speed compression damping. 

High speed damping control is great for trail bikes because it can make a choppy ride feel plush without bottoming out easily. High speed compression damping controls the compression speed when you hit obstacles that compress the suspension at a high rate of speed. This would include small bumps, rocks, roots, etc. Being able to soften it up for the small stuff without effecting the suspension on bigger hits will make your ride softer so you’ll be able to ride longer.

Forks

The stock CRF230F forks are adequate for a new rider, but they are very soft and one-dimensional. They only have about 9.5″ of travel, so this is one of the biggest disadvantages compared to other full size trail bikes with 11-12 inches of suspension travel. 

The stock 230 forks can be modified. Heavy duty springs are a common mod, but that only makes them a stiffer one-dimensional set of forks. When I say one-dimensional, I mean that the rate at which the forks compress is the same throughout the entire stroke. This is due to there only being one hole on each damper rod for the fork oil to flow through. This is referred to as suspension damping. 

Stock Fork Mods

I like to work on and modify my own bikes and parts, but when it comes to suspension work that I’ve never done before, I consider sending it to someone and see what they did and how it works. In the case of my CRF230, I sent my stock fork damper rods and springs to Bruce Triplett because he knows his stuff when it comes to older style RSU (right-side-up) forks. The 230 community regard him as the guru for the stock suspension components and how to set them up for each person’s weight and riding ability. 

Modded 2005 Honda CRF230F

For about 110 bucks I got them back and installed them myself. I was greatly impressed because the damping was much more progressive, and the pre-load was spot on for my weight. For the best budget fork upgrade, a good tuner like Bruce is the way to go, especially if you’re intimidated by working on suspension. He is extremely easy to talk to and will explain everything in detail. His speed and cost are beyond fair in my opinion.

Fork Conversions

There are numerous fork conversions that have been done to the CRF230F. Whichever kind of fork setup you want depends on how much work you’re willing to do. 

CR85 Fork Conversion

Probably the first and most popular fork swap was the CR80/CR85 forks, which is what I have on my 230. They are one of the lightest forks that can be fitted to this bike. Adapter kits were being made by at least one manufacturer/person, but they can be difficult to source if you don’t have the resources to make your own adapter parts.

The CR85 forks require a lower triple clamp relief mod for the steering stem to be long enough, wheel spacers, brake caliper adapters, fender mounting mods, and a longer brake line. There’s probably a couple other small things to make everything fit and work. 

CRF230F CR85 Fork Conversion

Then there’s setting up the fork spring rate and valving. Stiffer springs are required, but the valving needs to be softer for trail riding or else it will be a harsh ride. If properly set up, these forks are on another level compared to the stock 230F forks. Having extra travel helps too. 

XR400 Fork Swap

The latest popular fork conversion is taking a complete XR400 front-end and bolting it onto the CRF230 chassis. There are still some small mods that need to be done, such as shortening the steering stem, but these are very capable forks, especially after some valving changes. 

Tires

Do you have the original tires on your CRF230? Even if they still have plenty of tread left, going to a different tire for the appropriate terrain will be an upgrade. After suspension, tires are the biggest factor to riding comfortably and confident, which will accelerate your skill and speed. I really like the Shinko F546 (Amazon) on the front and a IRC VE33 (Amazon) on the rear. They both work well in every terrain I’ve ridden my 230F.

Upgraded CDI Box

The CDI (ignition box) controls the timing of the spark that produces combustion for the engine. The stock CRF230F CDI is very mellow, to put it plainly. It’s a lazy ignition curve so that the power-curve is smooth, soft, and it won’t cause any pre-ignition problems.

An aftermarket ignition will advance the spark at all or certain RPM ranges. What this means is that the spark plug will ignite and the combustion will begin at a sooner point of the engine rotation. This helps burn the mixture and push the piston back down at the right time to make more power. 

There’s a point at which advancing will do more harm than good. The result will be a loss in power and it can pre-ignite the air/fuel mixture. You shouldn’t need to worry about that on the CRF 230 unless you are running extremely high compression.

ProCom CDI

The best bang for your buck is going to be a ProCom CDI. It advances the spark mostly at low RPM speeds. This will help boost low-end torque, which is where this bike shines. 

The rev limiter is also increased, but the CRF230 is useless at that high of an RPM. Once it goes past 8k it’s going downhill in the horsepower department. 

Exhaust

Did you know that the CRF230F and CRF150F (03-05) share the same size head pipe? Honda wanted to save money, so they didn’t develop a new head pipe that works better for the larger engine, so they used the pipe from the smaller engine. This is a choke point, so going with a larger diameter header pipe will provide a noticeable power gain even if your engine is stock. 

Is The Muffler Junk Too?

The 230 muffler is actually not that bad. Yes, the baffle is somewhat restrictive, but the muffler itself flows well enough to use a larger head pipe with it. 

Going with a full aftermarket exhaust system can yield the most improvement, but it costs more and is generally louder. 

Which Exhaust Is Best?

Pretty much any aftermarket exhaust is going to be better than a stock system if it’s properly jetted. It mainly depends on the look, sound, and price you want to pay for it. 

Cheap Knock-Off Exhaust System

If you’re on a tight budget, the JFG Racing exhaust system (Amazon) is as cheap as it gets while still giving you performance. At about 100 bucks, you wonder how they can sell them… 

The quality of materials and fitment probably won’t be the greatest. You might just need to help it along to fit, but you may not have any problem at all. It’s not a dyno-proven exhaust, so don’t expect massive horsepower gains for your CRF230.

q? encoding=UTF8&MarketPlace=US&ASIN=B07GYSLJMD&ServiceVersion=20070822&ID=AsinImage&WS=1&Format= SL250 &tag=crf230f mods 20 13 Free & Practical CRF230F Mods To Make It Great

Pro Circuit T4 System

The Pro Circuit T4 exhaust system (Amazon) is my recommendation for the best bang for your buck in performance, quality and price. It looks good and sounds good too. The head pipe has multiple diameters (stepped head pipe gets bigger each section), which is perfect for providing broad, mid-range power. 

The PC T4 is going to be louder than a stock pipe, but it’s not obnoxious. For around 250, you’re not going to find many other name brand complete exhausts unless they’re used. It also comes with a USFS approved spark arrestor on the end cap.

Yoshimura RS2 System

Yoshimura is well known for making high quality performance exhausts in the dirt bike industry. The build quality and durability is great, and with the quiet insert, it’s one of the quietest pipes while still giving you more power than stock. 

The Yoshimura RS2 Comp Series Enduro exhaust (MotoSport) comes with a USFS approved spark arrestor for the CRF230F.

My Personal Review

I personally have an FMF Megabomb head pipe with the stock muffler and a custom end cap on my CRF230F. The FMF header has a reduced diameter where it meets the midpipe/stock muffler joint, so it still restricts flow even though it’s larger than stock up until that point. 

Out of the above options, I would probably go with the Yoshimura or Pro Circuit (Amazon) exhaust system if I had to do it over again. That way I get the whole system without needing to do any mods later to open it up more. 

Carb Upgrade

The stock carburetor is another choke point on the CRF230F. Upgrading to a larger carb will most likely gain horsepower, but you may lose torque if you choose the wrong one. 

XL250 OEM Carb

The old Honda XL250 carb is basically the easiest bolt-on performance carb upgrade for the CRF230. The problem is, they’re hard to find, and they usually need a rebuild with replacement parts that are hard to find in stock. 

The reason why the XL250 carb is better is primarily because of the accelerator pump. The AP is a mechanical pump that squirts a small shot of fuel through the carb at low RPM throttle openings. This extra fuel produces more low-end power and throttle response because it helps get rid of that lean spot. 

Why The Stock Carb Sucks

Old, round slide carbs, like what the stock CRF230F has, are not efficient at low RPM. There’s a lot that goes into that but that’s for another article. If you’ve ever snapped the throttle open quickly from a low RPM, you’ve probably felt the bog or hesitation before it starts accelerating. This is a lean bog because the engine can’t burn the fuel at the same rate that air is coming in.

Adding a little extra fuel from the AP counteracts that, giving you more “snap” at the low-end, which is great for getting up hills in a lower gear or popping the front wheel up to get over a fallen log.

XL250 Chinese Copy Carb

There’s a Chinese copy of the XL250 carburetor (Amazon) on eBay for less than $50, but the quality isn’t quite the same. Many CRF230 owners that have done this carb swap needed to buy two of these carbs and swap out good working parts from each of them to make one complete functioning carb. The accelerator pump and nozzle will probably need to be adjusted as well on this copycat carb or else you won’t get the benefit.

If you like tinkering on stuff and saving money, this route may work out well for you. 

Keihin PWK28 Carb Conversion

A genuine Keihin PWK 28 carb is well known to be a great carb upgrade for the CRF230F, even if your engine is stock. It’s smaller, lighter, easy to tune, and it outperforms the stock carb in every way. 

The biggest setback is the cost and time to adapt it to the CRF230 intake manifold. A new genuine PWK28 is over 200 bucks, but setup with the right jetting and it’s ready to go with some adapters and a different throttle assembly. The stock carb has push and pull cables while the PWK just has one pull cable.

PWK carb is a great mod to give your CRF230F more torque and horsepower

Adapters are needed because it’s shorter than the stock carb and the inlet/outlet diameters are smaller. They can be machined and pressed on, or you can get creative with some tubing from a local hardware/tool supply store. 

Big Bore Kit

There’s no replacement for displacement. You have a number of options for increasing the engine size on your CRF 230. A big bore piston kit from BBR (Amazon) is available if you want to bore your stock cylinder out. This should be done by a machinist that can hold proper tolerances. 

Athena has a complete big bore kit that comes with a new cylinder and piston kit already matched to size. The best part? It’s not much more expensive than a big bore piston kit. It’s higher compression but can still be run on premium pump gas. To read more about the Athena big bore kit click here. 

Camshaft

The camshaft is one of the biggest pieces to the puzzle of any 4 stroke engine. It determines where the power is made and how it comes on. Web Cam Racing is the biggest producer of camshafts for the CRF230F. 

If you want more low-end torque, go for higher lift and low to moderate duration. The more duration you add the higher in the RPM range the power shifts towards.

Max lift for the stock CRF230 valve springs is .365″. Any more than that and you will need heavier duty springs so they don’t bind and cause valve float. 

Cylinder Head Porting Is Underrated

The other secret sauce to building a great engine is in the ports. Cylinder head porting can make or break an engine’s power-band, and it’s easy to do the latter if you don’t know what you’re doing. Just making the ports larger probably won’t help as much as you think. In fact, it may make it worse and kill your bottom-end power. 

The Intake Culprit

The weakest link in the CRF230F cylinder head is the intake port. It is restrictive, and unfortunately there isn’t much room to work with before breaking through the port wall. 

Finding a porting specialist that knows the 230 engine specifically is key to getting the most efficient power gains. 

Making Everything Work Together

A stock CRF230 head can only flow so much air. Even if you add a big bore, a larger carb, and a better flowing exhaust, the intake port is going to choke up the potential that you could be getting.

Everything in the engine works together, so if you’re going for a specific type of power-curve, all the components should be tuned for that RPM range. 

Flywheel Key

Similar to the ProCom CDI mentioned earlier, a modified flywheel key can advance the timing to boost low-end power and throttle response. The flywheel key indexes the flywheel, which is on the crankshaft. Removing material from one side of the key will change the timing of the flywheel. 

Adjustable Camshaft Sprocket

Want even more timing adjustability? Slot the cam sprocket holes to “degree in” your camshaft, especially if it’s an aftermarket race cam. It’s always good to check the cam timing and valve clearances when installing a new camshaft. 

Most of the time the cam builder will get the timing spot on, but occasionally you may need to adjust it a couple degrees to get it where you want it. 

Lightened Flywheel

Not only will the engine be lighter, but it will rev quicker for better acceleration. Removing 12+ ounces from the circumference of the CRF230F flywheel is easy with a machinist lathe. The engine and flywheel are already so heavy that removing up to 1 pound will not make it easy to stall due to the lighter rotating mass.

CRF230F Lightened Flywheel 13 Free & Practical CRF230F Mods To Make It Great

Bonus Mod: Gearing

One more mod that will make a big difference on your CRF230 is changing the gearing. Stock gearing is a 13 tooth front and 51 tooth rear sprocket. First gear is so low that it’s almost unusable. Once you start adding power, you might as well start in second gear because it has plenty of torque to pull it from a standstill.

The best mod to ride faster in the woods

You can do all the mods you want to your CRF230F, but if you don’t have proper riding technique, you’re going to struggle staying in control on the trails. Want to get started on the right path to building your confidence? Click here to start learning proper riding technique.

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Sours: https://motocrosshideout.com/crf230f-mods/

Overview

Throw Fun Into High Gear.
Availability: August, 2013.

There is no one single feature that makes the CRF230F stand apart. Instead it’s the combination of all its features that has made it one of the most popular trail bikes we build. Features like the bulletproof six-speed transmission. The plush Pro-Link rear suspension with long travel. The durable and right-sized 223cc four-stroke engine. The rugged frame, lightweight materials front to back, and of course, the electric starter that gets you going with the push of a button. Add our legendary reliability and build quality to the mix, and you end up with a bike that delivers non-stop fun for adults and larger teens alike.

So if you like low maintenance and ease-of-operation mixed in with your fun, then the CRF230F is the perfect bike for you.

The Standard Bearer.

For years, Honda has made the best and most reliable four-stroke engines in the business. So you can enjoy non-stop fun out on the trail.

Don’t Kick. Just Push.

Sometimes you just want to get on your bike and get out there. And that’s just what the CRF230F’s push-button electric starter helps you do.

Electric Starter

Push-button starting makes getting going easier in all kinds of conditions. Efficient design adds minimal weight.

Keyed Ignition

Keyed ignition switch for added security. The switch lets you control who goes riding and when.

223cc Engine

Dependable 223cc single-cylinder air-cooled four-stroke engine offers plenty of user-friendly power and torque spread over a wide-rpm range.

Disc Brake

Front disc brake provides superior stopping power. Front disc rotor is drilled for lightness and better wet-weather performance.

Snail-Type Chain Adjusters

Snail-Type chain adjusters for easy maintenance.

Pro-Link Rear Suspension

Progressive linkage connects a single shock to the swingarm. Delivers an excellent combination of spring and damping rates over a wide range of riding conditions. Heavy duty Showa® rear shock.

Sealed Battery

Maintenance-free sealed battery helps insure that your CRF230F is ready to ride without you having to do a lot of pre-ride preparation.

Specifications

Verdict

The 2013 CRF230F, is a fairly capable off road machine. Its air-cooled, two-valve, 223cc engine is not an impressive unit but this doesn’t mean that it itsn’t capable to deal well with technical trails. You also get a slick transmission which rewards you nice shifts.

The motorcycle comes with a pretty high seat and ground clearance which keep it safe during harsh off road riding. Though it comes with a pretty high curb weight, but thanks to its sporty suspensions it feels well balanced and hides its weight prey well.

About the author
Sours: https://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/honda/2014-honda-crf230f-ar159892.html
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We got the CRF 230 and rode it one time only before it got the tools flying. It's no mystery that the 230 comes strangled up. Part of the reason is because of the nearly insane emission laws and regulations in California. And because California leads the nation in dirt bike sales, the rest of the country gets the gasping version, too.

Our first step was to uncork the 230 and let it breathe. This meant taking out the exhaust baffle and removing the highly restrictive inlet on top of the airbox. Warning: if you remove the exhaust baffle and the airbox restrictor without richening up the jetting, you stand a very real chance of smoking your engine due to an overly lean condition.

You absolutely must richen up the jetting before the engine is fired up once the mods are made.

Jetting info
Main: 132 - Part # 99113-GHB-1320
Pilot: stock is 42
Needle: Honda Power-up kit part #16012-KPS-921 (clip in middle position)
Pilot screw: Stock (5/8th turn out)
Standard Float level


Here's the needle jet kit you should install in the 230 carb

Here's the main jet and the package it came in

Honda designed the 230F to run with an exhaust baffle and intake baffle to limit the noise produced by the bike. These baffles are removable, and doing so can increase the power your bike produces. It will also increase the noise a bit, but not to the objectionable level.


Remove the end cap off the exhaust

Using a number 25 torx bit, remove the muffler baffle screw

Discard the baffle (black item) from the internal spark arrestor

Button the pipe up and the exhaust is ready
 
Completed exhaust
 

The 230F, as delivered by Honda, is jetted lean and has a restricted intake and exhaust. You may want to raise the needle to richen the mid-range and possibly adjust the pilot air screw to adjust off-idle performance. No further changes should be necessary if you leave the intake and exhaust in stock form. If you ride in cold weather, you may want to richen the mid-range and top-end by raising the needle and installing a larger main jet.

Remove the air box restrictor. This restrictor is located under the seat in the top part of the air box. Just pull it up and out. Some riders will drill a few optional holes on the top and sides of the airbox. This may not be needed. We'll experiment as time goes on. A word of caution to those who ride in the woods: if you drill holes in the sides you might ingest a bit water when you slog across a stream.


Take the snorkle inlet out of the top of the airbox

We also removed the rubber edging that holds the snorkle in place. Just pull it out

Getting to the carb and changing jets can be intimidating, especially if you're stumped by a "normal" carb. The Honda is incredibly complicated and even has a dual cable push/pull throttle. Therefore, we taken the liberty to run step at a time photos and captions for this process. You can get to the carb without removing it, but we found it much easier to do the changes with carb off the bike, nice and free.


In order to have easy access to the carb, remove the gas tank, seat and side panels

This cable should be removed. Honda uses two cables on the carb. One pulls and one pushes

This cable should be retained. Loosen the jam nuts and slip the cable out of the way

The locking nut on the throttle housing must be loosened in order to remove the push cable

Remove the push cable from the throttle housing

The remaining throttle cable should detached from the linkage

It's easier to work on the carb if the clamps are removed and the carb is pulled free

Remove the 17 mm nut on the bottom of the float bowl to drain the carb and get access to the main jet

Main jet goes in the bottom of the float bowl

Using a small Phillips screwdriver to loosen the carb cap bolts

A small Phillips will be needed to remove the screw on the link arm

Use a small exhaust pipe spring puller to raise the slide up

Small needle nose pliers are used to remove the retaining spring

Slide the linkage out of the carb body

Don't lose the white shim on the linkage

Raise the slide out of the throttle body using something like an exhaust spring puller

Remove the small spring holding the pins in place using a needle nose plier

There are two small screws in the bottom the slide holding the linkage in. Remove them with a Phillips screwdriver

Linkage removed. Slide is in background

Take the stock needle out of the slide

Replace the stock needle with the new one. Clip should go in the center position

Button everything back up and slide the carb back into place

Once we got the Honda uncorked in both the airbox and the exhaust, and changed the jetting to the new stuff, the bike came alive … literally. From a pleasant, mild-mannered bike, it turned into a peppy, fun to ride machine. It even warmed up quicker and much of the cold-blooded nature of the beast went away. Before the mods, it took forever to warm up and would stall all the time while warming up. After the mods, it ran cleaner and was much more user friendly. It also seemed to let the engine rev better. Nice.

Riding the bike with the power-up mods was a pure joy. While not as fast as a full-blown 250 mxer, it was still peppy enough to satisfy all of our demands. The six speed gearbox was well spaced and easy to use, but a bit on the notchy side. With time it should loosen up a bit.

Riding the bike much harder and faster brought out some shortcomings in the bike. In particular, the rear suspension sucked, big time. We'll try some adjustments in the next issue and even try an aftermarket shock. So far, the forks are decent, but once the rear end is dialed in and working fine, any shortcomings in the forks will become more than apparent.

We were more than impressed with the way the bike ran with the jetting and breathing mods. And this only part one! Stay tuned.

Sours: http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project697.html
Enduro with a Crf230 ?!

– 2019 Honda CRF230F Review / Buyer’s Guide | Off-Road CRF Motorcycle / Dirt & Trail Bike –

2019 Honda CRF230 Dirt Bike / Trail Bike Review of Specs & Features | Off-Road Motorcycle

Are you looking for the largest Honda CRF dirt bike that is just a trail bike and not a flat-out race bike like the CRF250R and CRF450R models? Not quite as aggressive or as expensive as the CRF250X and CRF450X models? Don’t want the added maintenance that those high-performance dirt bikes need? Then the 2019 CRF230F is the right off-road motorcycle for you… Thankfully the CRF230F is making its return for 2019 as Honda didn’t build a 2018 CRF230F, you can read more on that by Clicking Here. 

  • Quick 2019 CRF230F Detail Overview:
    • 2019 CRF230F Price / MSRP – $4,349
    • 2019 CRF230F VS 2017 CRF230F Price Increase – +$50
    • 2019 CRF230F Colors – Red
    • 2019 CRF230F Release Date – June 2018
    • 2019 CRF230F Horsepower – 19 HP
    • 2019 CRF230F Seat Height – 34.6 inches
    • 2019 CRF230F Weight – 248 lbs (curb weight = full of fluids, ready to ride)
    • 2019 CRF230F Changes: None (other than pricing)

Detailed 2019 Honda CRF230 Review / Specs: Price / MSRP, Colors, HP & TQ Performance Info, Suspension, Engine + More!

If you’re not familiar with Honda’s CRF dirt bikes, let me break things down a few things real quick as Honda’s multitude of CRF dirt bikes can be confusing for some. All of Honda’s dirt bikes have the CRF nameplate but what’s important in determining what type of dirt bike it is, comes down to the letter after the numbers which are the engine size. 

Honda makes two types of CRF dirt bikes (technically three if you count the CRF-L street legal models but we’re only talking off-road right now or four if you count the CRF-X models but Honda didn’t build them in 2018 and 2019 is undecided so I’m not including them here), you have the CRF-F models which are your basic “trail” style dirt bike and then you have the CRF-R model lineup that are Honda’s flat-out “race” dirt bikes. The CRF-F models are your basic run-of-the-mill off dirt bikes where you don’t have to do much maintenance other than change oil every 600 miles, 100 hours or once every 6-12 months depending on how much you ride it whereas the CRF-R models need to be serviced every 7.5 hours. The CRF-R models are high-strung race bikes that are built to eek out every last horsepower and longevity isn’t really a huge concern as with racing you need all the horsepower you can get to get you across the finish line first at any cost. Aside from maintenance costs being higher on the CRF-R models, the price of entry is substantially more too as you pay a premium for all of the technology that Honda crams into these bikes from the engine to the frame and suspension. Millions of dollars are spent in research and development to make them better and better year after year whereas the CRF-F models are redesigned once every decade or so. Curious about the horsepower differences between all of these different CRF models? Here’s a CRF Horsepower / Power-to-Weight Comparison – Click Here.

Here’s a few links to the other CRF dirt bike models from Honda if you want to do some more research on a certain model:

  • CRF-L Street Legal Dual-Sport Bikes

2019 Honda Motorcycles | Announcement #1 – Click Here

2019 Honda CRF230F Ride | Review / Specs, Price, Colors, Horsepower Performance Info

Taking all of that into account is why I said at the very beginning, if you want a ‘basic’ off-road trail bike to hit the trails and don’t need and or want a higher price tag, added maintenance etc then the CRF-F models are right up your alley.

Now, let’s dive into some of the details regarding certain 2019 CRF230F specs and features broken down into categories from the 230 CRF’s engine and drivetrain to its overall frame and suspension:

CRF230F Engine / Drivetrain

  • Dependable 223cc single-cylinder air-cooled four-stroke engine offers plenty of user-friendly power and torque spread over a wide-rpm range.
  • 28mm carburetor up from 26mm provides crisp throttle response.
  • Electric start for ease of starting.
  • Lightweight aluminum crankcase.
  • Maintenance-free CD ignition.

2019 Honda CRF230F Engine Review / Specs

  • Heavy-duty clutch offers smooth, progressive engagement.
  • Smooth-shifting, versatile six-speed transmission.
  • Heavy-duty O-ring-sealed chain for durability and reduced maintenance.
  • Cam-type chain adjusters for easy maintenance.
  • Washable, reusable foam air filter for reduced maintenance costs.
  • Front and rear steel sprockets for durability.
  • Quiet, USDA-qualified spark arrester/muffler.
  • Engine design produces low emissions and meets California Air Resources Board (CARB) off-road standards.

How does the 2019 CRF230F stack up against the other 2019 CRF dirt bike models in the engine performance department? Here’s horsepower numbers on each of the CRF models:

  • 2019 CRF50F HP – 3.1
  • 2019 CRF110F HP – TBA
  • 2019 CRF125F / B HP – TBA
  • 2019 CRF150R HP – 23.5
  • 2019 CRF230F HP – 19.0
  • 2019 CRF250F HP – 22.8
  • 2019 CRF250RX HP – 43.5
  • 2019 CRF250R HP – 43 
  • 2019 CRF450X HP – 44.3
  • 2019 CRF450R HP – 60.8
  • 2019 CRF450RX HP – 60.8
  • 2019 CRF450L HP – 41.7
    • * The rest of the 2019 CRF model lineup list will be updated with official numbers on they are released.

CRF230F Frame / Chassis & Suspension

  • Box-section aluminum swingarm is first in its class.
  • Lightweight semi-double-cradle high-tensile steel frame.
  • High-impact plastic skid plate protects lower engine cases.
  • 1.9 gallon plastic fuel tank and thrifty four-stroke engine mean you’ll be able to ride for a while without worrying about needing to refuel.
  • 37mm leading-axle Showa fork offers 9.5 inches of suspension travel.
  • Fork boots keep dirt and moisture away from fork seals.
  • Heavy-duty Showa shock offers 9.0 inches of travel.

2019 Honda CRF230 Dirt Bike / Trail Bike Review of Specs & Features | Off-Road Motorcycle

  • Pro-Link® rear suspension rides on needle bearings for smooth action and durability.
  • Powerful 240mm front disc brake.
  • Lightweight rear drum brake.
  • Strong, lightweight rims with straight-pull spokes.
  • Motocross-style seat is low and comfortable, and allows maximum rider movement.
  • High-impact plastic skid plate protects lower engine cases.
  • Folding shift lever.
  • Front and rear steel sprockets for durability.
  • High-quality handlebar with comfortable grips.
  • Extra-wide, cleated, folding, self-cleaning foot pegs and brake pedal for secure footing.
  • Motocross-style seat is low, comfortable and allows maximum rider movement.
  • Extra-wide cleated, folding, self-cleaning footpegs and brake pedal for secure footing.
  • High-quality handlebar with comfortable grips.

Additional CRF230F Features

  • CRF-R-inspired graphics.
  • Easily detachable number plate.
  • Maintenance-free sealed battery.
  • Keyed ignition switch.
  • Transferable six-month limited warranty. You can add up to another 54 more months with Honda’s extended warranty, the HondaCare Protection Plan.

2019 CRF230F Pictures / Photo Gallery

Technical 2019 CRF230F Specs[/display_alert]

ModelCRF230F
ENGINE 
Type223cc air-cooled single-cylinder four-stroke
Valve TrainSOHC; two-valve
Bore x Stroke65.5mm x 66.2mm
Compression Ratio9.0:1
Induction28mm piston-valve carburetor
IgnitionCD
StarterElectric 
Driveline#520 T-ring-sealed chain; 13T/50T
Transmission6-speed
ClutchMultiple Wet
SUSPENSION 
Front37mm leading-axle Showa fork; 9.4 inches travel
RearPro-Link Showa single shock w/ spring preload adjustability; 9.0 in. travel
BRAKES 
FrontSingle 240mm disc
RearDrum
TIRES 
Front80/100-21
Rear100/100-18
MEASUREMENTS 
Rake (castor angle)26°45’
Trail111mm (4.4 in.)
Length81.1 in.
Width31.5 in.
Height45.9 in.
Seat Height34.6 in.
Ground Clearance 12.0 in.
Wheelbase54.0 in.
Fuel Capacity1.9 gal. incl. 0.4-gal. reserve
Curb Weight*248 lbs.
OTHER 
ColorsRed

* Includes all standard equipment, required fluids and full tank of fuel—ready to ride. Meets current CARB and EPA off-road emissions standards.

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Sours: https://www.hondaprokevin.com/2019-honda-crf230f-review-specs-dirt-bike-motorcycle

Build crf230f

Specifications & description

Engine

  • Engine type: 223cc air-cooled single-cylinder four-stroke
  • Bore and stroke: 65.5mm x 66.2mm
  • Induction: 26mm piston-valve carburetor
  • Ignition: CD
  • Compression ratio: 9.0:1
  • Valve train: SOHC; two-valve

Drive train

  • Transmission: Six-speed
  • Final drive: #520 O-ring-sealed chain; 13T/50T

Chassis suspension brakes

  • Front suspension: 37mm leading-axle Showa® fork; 9.5 inches travel
  • Rear suspension: Pro-Link® Showa single shock with spring-preload adjustability; 9.0 inches travel
  • Front brake: Single 240mm disc
  • Rear brake: Drum
  • Front tire: 80/100-21
  • Rear tire: 100/100-18

Dimensions

  • Rake: 27.3° (caster angle)
  • Trail: 112mm (4.4 inches)
  • Wheelbase: 54.1 inches
  • Seat height: 34.6 inches
  • Curb weight: 249 pounds (includes all standard equipment, required fluids and a full tank of fuel-ready to ride)
  • Fuel capacity: 1.9 gallons, including 0.4-gallon reserve
  • Ground clearance: 11.7 inches

Other

  • Model ID: CRF230F
  • Emissions: Meets current EPA off-road emissions standards.
  • Available colors: Red

Factory warranty information

  • Note: Six months, transferable limited warranty. Extended coverage available with a Honda Protection Plan.
Sours: https://www.21stcenturyequipment.com/other-brands/honda-powersports/crf230f/
CRF 230 - Foca Racing

by Chandler.S. » Fri Jul 12, 2013 4:52 am

Hey Everybody!! I am new here, so I just wanted to start out by posting a thread on what I am doing with my CRF 230F right now. :D

I am 15 years old, so I decided to take my brother's dirt bike when he moved away to college. It is a stock 2003 model, so I didn't really now how much it would take. It took a lot of abuse from jumping it 41 Feet in my friends wheat field to racing up and down my friends river bed. The bike has stood up to everything I have thrown at it, but I decided it is finally time to fix it up before I go ride in the Desert 100 Race up in Odessa, Washington next spring.

I found out a few weeks ago that I had broke my Front Brake Master Cylinder, along with some small things like a blown fork seal and torn off handlebar grips. I have been ordering parts this week to start fixing it up, but I don't have the money to order the parts all at once. The rebuild process is going to take at least a couple months. I am also going to make it street legal for riding back and forth from school and work though, so that is going to take some time to get the money also.

Here are some pictures of the Dirt Bike without any body panels on it.

Image

I ordered a Venom Motorcycle Lift/Stand so I don't have to keep my Dirt Bike on a wooden stand I made. Once I get that in next week I am going to take the Fork and Rear Shock off so I can take them in to get fixed. On the Fork, I am having the seals and oil replaced along with some stiffer springs. I am also going to have the guys put a stiffer spring on the rear shock.

I don't have many pictures right now, but I will be working on the bike tomorrow morning after I get done working in the garage and in the pasture, so I will try and post more updates tomorrow!! :D
Sours: https://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39113

Similar news:

6 Sigma Carb Jet Kit fits Honda CRF230F CRF 230 F Custom Performance Stage 1-3 Carburetor Jetting

Installing a jet kit in your carb is the best way to get the maximum performance and longest life out of your bike. The stock carburetor from the factory is designed to meet Import Regulations ... not peak performance. Once you install or modify an exhaust or intake, you have put your bike into a leaner condition that will eventually destroy your engine due to heat from running lean. If you notice any popping, you are extremely lean. Our jet kit provides the parts and installation instructions to enrich all the circuits in the carb, to fix this problem, and add performance you can feel in the seat. This is a comprehensive jet kit, addressing all throttle positions, throttle response, and each kit is custom made to your bike and its modifications. Replacing just the jets does not address 1/4-3/4 throttle position, or throttle response, only full throttle. 1 KIT IS FOR THE ENTIRE BIKE, ALL CARBS ON THE BIKE. Benefits: More Peak Horse Power - (Designed to gain 6%-8% in HP with intake/exhaust, 2-3% on bone stock.) Longer Engine Life- (The jet kit is a performance upgrade that allows the engine to run cooler which increases engine component life.) Increased Performance- (Designed to improve all RPM ranges of performance and throttle response.) Lower EGT's (exhaust gas temperatures) If you have installed an aftermarket, or modified the stock exhaust or intake, this is needed or you will damage your engine. Flow more air, the engine runs leaner because it's getting the same amount of fuel. Running lean causes detonation and hotter EGT's which ruin exhaust valves and destroy engines. Kit Includes: Main Jets, Needle Adjusters, Nylon Spacers, Drill Bits for: Slide Hole Mod, Slide Spring Mod, Idle Mixture Mod, Bike Specs, Carb Schematic, Carb Synchronizer Tool (how to build for $5), Step by step instructions customized to your bike.

Sours: https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-CRF230F-Performance-Carburetor-Jetting/dp/B07RRCRTSH


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