22re starter location

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Old 08-02-2011, 12:36 PM

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88 22re starter problems


Hey guys and gals been having some issues with my 1988 toyota 4runner 22re for awhile now and haven't been able to figure it out. Sometimes when I have tried to start my truck the starter will just click and the clock would die as soon as I tried cranking the truck. But usually it would start up eventually after a few tries. But as of last week it won't start anymore, the starter just clicks and clicks. So first thing first I got my battery fully charged (optima red top), installed some new terminals and tried it again but it did the same thing. Decided to pull the starter off and replaced the contacts but still just clicks after I tried to start it, so I bought a new starter the other day and thought maybe the solenoid had gone bad in the old one but still only get clicks with the new starter. I also had my dad crank the truck as I held the starter relay and I can feel it working, I also tried jumping the starter by getting a wire and connecting it directly from the starter solenoid to the pos side of my battery and it only clicks. Next thing on my list is to check the grounds, probably take them off and clean them then reinstall them. I'm really stumped at this point, can't figure out whats causing this.

Another issue thats not that big of a deal is cold starts. Ever since I bought the truck from the previous owner I've always had to give it some gas on cold starts to stay alive, if i started it without doing that it will just die immediately. Its not that big of a deal but just figured I'd try and figure it out also.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm new to toyota's and this motor so excuse me for my noob knowledge. Thanks alot

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Old 08-02-2011, 02:27 PM
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Take your battery into an Autozone and have it tested. It sounds like it's bad.

For the cold starts, I think you need a new cold start injector.

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Old 08-02-2011, 02:41 PM

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I took it there and it tested good. Then left it there for a day to get it slow charged. The battery is less then a year old.

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Old 08-02-2011, 03:28 PM
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You likely have a bad cable or ground strap. It surely sounds like a power issue.

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Old 08-04-2011, 12:44 PM

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starter issue


My 86 5 spd 4 runner has a similar or the same problem. I've determined that it's not the starter or battery. I think it's the starter relay not giving enough juice to engage the bendix on the starter because if I put the truck in gear and roll slightly and pop the clutch for a split second while turning the key it cranks fine and starts. Beware every time you turn the key and it clicks the fuel injection system is spraying fuel to the cylinders and can cause a flooding or hard starting condition. My relay is on the right side in the engine compartment behind the electrical box. i'm going to try and bypass the relay to be certain.

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Old 08-06-2011, 12:12 AM
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The starter 'relay' is the solenoid on the starter. The fuel relay could be an issue. I would also suspect a problem with your flywheel, or the starter not being mounted properly for the gears to mesh.

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Old 08-06-2011, 04:03 AM
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My 85 had the same problem. It's a pair of contacts on the starter motor, mostly likely corroded over the years. The parts are cheap, the labor is not. Midas did mine ten years ago for $90 labor + parts.

I know you said you replaced the starter contacts. The pieces I am talking about are big and coppery, like one inch wide.

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Old 08-06-2011, 10:20 PM
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This same question pops up every other week or so. Does anyone use the search button? Questions about STARTER PROBLEMS and starter relay have been discussed numerous times before. Use the search button.

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Old 05-22-2012, 08:07 PM

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I'm having this exact same problem on my '87 22RTE. I found that having someone turn the key while you knock on the starter works. This is a temporary solution. I did everything me and my old man can think of, now we're out of ideas. This truck's my daily driver and it frustrates me to have a date turn the key while i hit the starter. ._.

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Sours: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/
I went to start my truck awhile back and I got nothin'. Just a click. I pushed the truck to a hill and clutch pop started it; it ran without a problem, so I went about trying to diagnose the problem. First I tried to jump start the truck, but that was a no go. Just the same click. I did some reading online and found some helpful forums on yotatech.comand pirate4x4.com; however, the starter guru is at 4crawler.com. These websites, along with my Toyota truck repair manual narrowed the problem to one of three things: battery, starter (starter solenoid), or electrical. I prayed that it wasn't electrical because doing electrical stuff is out of my knowledge and comfort zone.

I began with basic stuff, the "duh" steps. I made sure the battery posts were clean and that the positive start cable to the starter was tight. I pulled the solenoid wire slip out, cleaned both ends and used a pair of needle nose pliers to clamp down on the female receptacle to make sure the connection was tight. None of this worked. Still just a click.

So, even though I had already tried to jump start the truck and figured it wasn't the battery, it was the next easiest thing to check. I unplugged the battery and took it to PepBoys for a free battery test. The battery tested ok, albeit a little low on juice. Pep charged the battery, and I brought it home, but to no avail.

The next easiest piece to check was the starter. First, I did a solenoid check by short wiring the starter. To short wire the starter just take a small wire and touch one end to the positive wire (the fat wire that comes directly from the positive post on the battery) nut on the starter to the place where the solenoid wire plugs into the starter. If you're by yourself, make sure the truck is in neutral and the emergency break is on, and then turn the key to the on position. When I short started the starter, I could here the starter plunger fire, but the truck wasn't even trying to turn over. Just the "click" from the plunger firing.

I wasn't sure what to do at this point since it seemed that the starter was working, but in a last ditch effort before I resigned my truck to an electrical problem, I decided to remove the starter and take it to PepBoys for a free starter check. PepBoys did the check, and thankfully, it was the starter that was bad and not the coil or ignition switch or some hole in a wire that would be impossible to find. After replacing the starter, my truck started right up.

Removing the Starter:

I was dreading removing the starter, but it actually turned out to be quite simple and very quick. The whole process--removal, exchange, and install--took less than an hour! Starter replacement is doable for even the most inept of Toyota owners.

TOOLS:
1. Socket Wrench
2. 13mm & 14 mm sockets
3. 3" socket extension.

STEPS:
1. First, remove the negative cable from the battery. This disconnects the entire electrical system.
Location of 22re starter solenoid wire, power, and bottom bold
22re Starter: Solenoid Wire, Power, and Bottom Bolt
2. Crawl under the truck and remove the solenoid wire. A good tug will pull it out. (See arrow in picture.)
3.Then, using the 13mm socket, remove the power wire from the starter. (For this step, I used two extension bars so my socket wrench was below the axle. A little overkill, but it made unscrewing the nut effortless.) (See square in pic).
4.Switch to the 14mm socket and the 3" socket extension and unscrew the bottom bolt from the starter. (This bolt also attaches the clutch slave cylinder to the transmission bell housing.)

5.Finally, still using the 14mm socket, remove the nut on top of the starter that bolts the part to the transmission.

Location of 22re starter top nut: view through EFI
22re Starter Top Nut: view through EFI
This is the "hardest" part of the job as the nut is way back under the EFI and can be difficult to reach. I found the 3" socket extension worked best as the 6" and 10" extensions ran into interference with other parts and hoses. The best access to the nut (non-lifted vehicle) is just to reach down through the EFI.

location of 22re top bolt, view from back of engine behind EFI
22re Starter Top Nut: upper view from back of Engine
If visibility is a problem, you can shine a light down onto the nut from the back of the Engine (see pic).


6.After the final nut is removed, you'll need to slide back under the truck, pull the starter forward, and then maneuver it out.



Installing the Starter:

Installing the starter is basically the same steps as removal, just reversed.

1.From under the truck, slide the new starter into position. The bolt on top of the starter holds it in place, so once the starter slides onto the bolt, you don't have to hold it anymore (thank you Toyota engineers!).
2.Once the starter is in place, screw in the bottom bolt.
3.Attach the Power cable.
4.Plug in the solenoid wire.
5.Then move to the top of the Engine compartment and screw the top nut back on.

Again, this is the most difficult part of the job because of the lack of access to the nut. I had to stand on a 5 gallon bucket in order to reach the bolt. I used my hand to get the nut on because it gave me greater control to feel the bolt; however, if you have a light shining down at the back of the engine as seen in the above picture, you can see what you're doing. After I got the nut on, I screwed the nut as tight as I could with my hand, then used the socket wrench to fasten it good 'n tight.

That's it.

How to Video:

I've created a video of the process to accompany the blog post. It's a tad long, but if you're the visual type:



Choosing a Starter:

Refurbished starters are total crap. If you read through the starter forums on yotatech, or go to 4crawler.com, you'll find explanations for why. 4crawler also gives step by step instructions for rebuilding the starter as the stock starter is better than anything you can purchase at a local store. Rebuilding a starter is out of my league, so buying a new one was the only option for me. You can get a genuine OEM Toyota starter at the dealership, but they are a bit pricey. If you've got the time, you can find an original pulled starter for around $30 on eBay. If you purchase one at the local auto shop, they come with lifetime warranties. Keep the receipt because you'll need it. The refurbished / re-manufactured starter will go out every 2-3 years, if not sooner. I was in a desperate place, so I plunged for the refurbished crap starter. I figured replacing the starter was an easy enough job, so why not? Just hope the starter doesn't go out while I'm back on a trail!

Share your own tips or horror story in the comments.


Sours: http://4runner4play.blogspot.com/2013/07/replacing-starter.html
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:36 AM
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Final fix for intermittent no-crank on the 22re.


So I struggled for a while with intermittent starting issues on my 22re. Sometimes it would start right up, sometimes there would be a delay of several seconds between the solenoid click and the engine actually cranking, and sometimes I'd get nothing. A jumpstart would always work if it failed to start, and a piece of speaker wire between the solenoid and the battery would always work too.

I tried several things over the course of about a year to get it resolved - I checked and replaced the big three grounds, I redid the connections on the battery and the starter, I cracked the starter open and rebuilt the contacts, I even replaced the starter with an Autozone reman (which I returned when it didn't fix the problem). Each time I'd do something, the trouble would clear for a month or two and then return.

The last thing I did was install a new voltage wire from the battery to the starter and put an aftermarket relay on the new wire, operated by the crank wire that used to go straight to the starter. It's been a year since I did this and I haven't had a lick of trouble since, so I think I'm safe to declare victory and post this little walkthrough. Massive credit to 4crawler and his site for the trouble isolation procedures and the inspiration to use a "hotshot", and more credit to the guys on my local board who helped me figure out the wiring to build it myself instead of dropping bucks on a setup from Painless Wiring.

What you'll need to wire your setup like I did mine: a 30 amp relay (I used an automotive relay, have the counter guys at NAPA give you a starter relay from a '78 Bronco), some 8ga wire with fuel/oil resistant insulation and 3 8ga ring terminals, some 14ga wire with fuel/oil resistant insulation and spade terminals, dielectric grease, heat shrink, and the starter connector on a crank wire that I cut from a harness at the pick and pull.

It should go without saying, but disconnect your battery before playing with your wiring.

a) Mount the terminal on your fender, near the battery. Clean the fender well when you mount it, because it grounds through the fender (run an extra ground wire if you can't get a clean connection through the mounting bracket).

Final fix for intermittent no-crank on the 22re.-imag0236-jpg

Final fix for intermittent no-crank on the 22re.-imag0237-jpg

b) Make a 14ga wire with a male spade connector on one side and a ring terminal on the other. Terminate the ring terminal on the relay, and plug the spade terminal into your factory crank wire connector (the black wire that leaves your harness under the intake plenum and usedto terminate on the starter). This wire can be as short as you like, as long as the crank wire can reach it.

Final fix for intermittent no-crank on the 22re.-imag0241-jpg

c) Run an 8ga wire from the battery to the new relay. I didn't fuse mine, but you technically should.

d) Run another 8ga wire from the relay to the starter, and here is where you use the crank wire connector you scrounged at the junkyard - splice it to the end of the 8ga wire (I intentionally made this wire very very long, and wrapped the extra around the relay. If I ever need to bypass my ignition and/or this new starter relay, I can disconnect this extra long wire from the relay and terminate it directly on the positive battery terminal).

Poof, you're done. What'd you do? You bypassed the worn out wiring in your ignition (and in your factory starter relay, if you have one, early 22re's like mine don't) - now when you turn the key, you only need a very weak signal through the ignition to trigger the new starter relay, and the relay gives a nice fresh strong 12 volts to your starter. Even if you've got worn down contacts in an old starter, that clean 12v should be enough to fire you up every time without fail.

Some notes: first off, Painless Wiring makes a thing they call the Hot Shot, which is basically a prewired version of what I built from scratch. They run $40 and another $10 shipping, which seemed excessive to me. They make another more expensive one with a "bump start" switch so you can crank your engine from under the hood, which seems cool until you remember you can do the same thing by jumping your starter straight to the battery with a 20 cent piece of wire. But if you've got more money than time or want a nice clean packaged solution, those are both options for you.

Second, you don't need to source that extra starter connector if you don't want to. You can always cut the one you've got off the harness and wire your crank wire straight to the relay. The advantage of doing it my way is my factory harness is intact, and I can always bypass my extra relay wiring and go straight back to the factory setup without even getting any tools out. The advantage of not doing it my way is you save yourself a trip to the junkyard and several hours digging for a 22re harness that hasn't already been torn to shreds by previous customers.

Third, I rarely have any idea what I'm doing and I'm quite sure there are better ways to do this, so don't rely on this writup as any sort of authority. This is just the way I did it, and so as always if you know a better way or this gives you an idea for a cleaner solution, feel free to post up!


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Old 07-14-2012, 08:42 PM

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Originally Posted by KidVermiciousView Post


It should go without saying, but disconnect your battery before playing with your wiring.

I've made a lot "should go without saying" bone headed moves in my time.

Great write-up BTW. Link logged in my reference files.
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I think you should visit an automotive professional.

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Old 07-15-2012, 11:37 AM

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Hey Kid, this is exactly what I did on my 350. The GM starters require so much power to crank, and the Yota's ignition doesn't have it, so I use the ignition switch lead only for closing the relay (a basic Ford solenoid like you're using), and get full juice from the battery upon closing. I did go bigger on the wire gauge, though--I wanted as little resistance as possible (I believe mine are 4's). Glad to hear you solved your mystery!

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Old 07-15-2012, 07:20 PM

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Excellent write-up! I added this to the FSM and troubleshooting sticky.

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Old 09-22-2012, 06:31 AM
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RAD4Runner's much better idea, and better write-up to boot.

RAD, is it possible that they started adding the relay in '87, or maybe halfway through the '86 production run? I searched high and low and couldn't find a relay anywhere on my truck.

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Old 09-22-2012, 07:21 AM

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i just run 4 gauge straight to the starter from battery source on all my vehicles

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Old 09-22-2012, 05:04 PM
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Wink

Nice! Now how about the issue where you turn the steering wheel and a a certain point the horn shorts out and honks? Usually right when you're in the middle of a turn and going from first to second gear and the person in front of you thinks you're a honking jerk in a rush?

Gotta love the Pre-90's rigs. lol

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Old 09-23-2012, 03:27 AM
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Quote:

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Nice! Now how about the issue where you turn the steering wheel and a a certain point the horn shorts out and honks? Usually right when you're in the middle of a turn and going from first to second gear and the person in front of you thinks you're a honking jerk in a rush?

Gotta love the Pre-90's rigs. lol

Ask and ye shall recieve. It isn't exactly the same fix, but if you check out the pics they'll give you a good idea of what's causing your short and how to fix it.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:50 AM

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Tnx, and yes, Start Relay added in '86


Duplicate post. Pls see below.

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Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-30-2012 at 12:13 PM. Reason: Duplicate post. Pls see below.

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Old 09-25-2012, 11:51 AM

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When Was Starter Relay Added?


Thanks, KidV

My 1986 4Runner has a start relay. If yours is also an 86, possible that they added it in mid-production run in 86.
Guys with 85 4Runners/Trucks and earlier, please chime in:
  • Does your truck have a starter relay (pic below)?
  • Year & month your truck made?

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Old 01-02-2013, 07:20 PM

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1986 with starter relay.

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Old 03-23-2013, 11:14 AM
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Hey fellas I've had this same problem for about three years and been running around in circles with new batteries, new starters, etc... I have an '87 with the relay so should I just go buy a new relay to try and fix or should I try the DIY fix in the write up? Thanks!!!!

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Old 03-23-2013, 12:20 PM
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Based on my experience and other guys threads, replacing that factory relay might fix it. I have yet to see anybody add another relay the way I did and have it fail to resolve the trouble.

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...problem for about three years and been running around in circles with new batteries, new starters, etc... I have an '87 with the relay so should I just go buy a new relay to try and fix or should I try the DIY fix in the write up? Thanks!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by KidVermiciousView Post

Based on my experience and other guys threads, replacing that factory relay might fix it. I have yet to see anybody add another relay the way I did and have it fail to resolve the trouble.

elcidsurfer,
Merely removing and replacing the relay may give you a relay with less resistance, disconnecting and reconnecting connectors may remove oxidation from contacts, and give you lower resistance from battery to starter solenoid coil, less voltage drop on the circuit, and more power to barely make solenoid work and "solve" your problem. however, that would be masking the problem. That is a shortcut. The flawwill still be there, waiting to cause problem again. Then you could be back to "running around in circles with new batteries, new starters, etc.."

Why not just fix it right, robustly and cleanly? Options:

Hotshot relay (search for it)
DIY - add a relay like KidV did because his did not have a starter relay, OR[*]Since you already have a starter relay, Rewire this way(does not require additional parts except for thicker wire and optional kill switch).[/LIST]

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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

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Old 03-23-2013, 04:03 PM
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Sours: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/
1989 Toyota 4Runner One Click/No Start, Relay Fix

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Starter location 22re

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How to Install Starter Motor on a 22R (rustbucket update)

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Now discussing:

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